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Long Branch Wall
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Cartography of Spirit 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Mike Farnsworth
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: Mike Farnsworth on Feb 24, 2015

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Description 

Formerly referred to as "The Darkeness Project" in Gray's book.

Climb the shared start to the center line out the tiered roofs. Clip the long chain on the left side of the first set of roofs and work to the rest jug before the boulder problem on Gone Sniffin'(the furthest left branch in the roofs). Then traverse right through crimps and a sidepull to a second long chain at the start of the crux.

The first ascent consisted of a deadpoint/dyno to a very bad sloping crimp under the bolt above the second long chain, which is itself equipped with a very short chain. I proposed 5.13d for this method after investing over 20 days of work, but time may demonstrate that easier options exist. Also, I'd imagine that the throw is proportionately easier with every fraction of an inch of height above 5'10", should you choose that path. In any case, it's one of the two hardest boulder problems I've ever managed. Post-crux, some 5.10+ climbing leads you to the anchors.

I think that this is a truly great climb and I'm infinitely thankful for all the support I had while working on these routes, esp. from Connie. I hope that others enjoy them even half as much.

Protection 

Bolts to 2-bolt anchor


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