Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Long Branch Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Johnson S 
Cartography of Spirit S 
Gone Sniffin' S 
Lightness, The S 
Ron Jeremy S 
Shorty's Lament S 
Unsorted Routes:

Cartography of Spirit 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Mike Farnsworth
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Mike Farnsworth on Feb 24, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Formerly referred to as "The Darkeness Project" in Gray's book.

Climb the shared start to the center line out the tiered roofs. Clip the long chain on the left side of the first set of roofs and work to the rest jug before the boulder problem on Gone Sniffin'(the furthest left branch in the roofs). Then traverse right through crimps and a sidepull to a second long chain at the start of the crux.

The first ascent consisted of a deadpoint/dyno to a very bad sloping crimp under the bolt above the second long chain, which is itself equipped with a very short chain. I proposed 5.13d for this method after investing over 20 days of work, but time may demonstrate that easier options exist. Also, I'd imagine that the throw is proportionately easier with every fraction of an inch of height above 5'10", should you choose that path. In any case, it's one of the two hardest boulder problems I've ever managed. Post-crux, some 5.10+ climbing leads you to the anchors.

I think that this is a truly great climb and I'm infinitely thankful for all the support I had while working on these routes, esp. from Connie. I hope that others enjoy them even half as much.


Bolts to 2-bolt anchor

Comments on Cartography of Spirit Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!