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Andy Cutler nearing the top of Carte Blanche on hi...
Starts under the low bulge located left of the big bush that separates the Demi Lune sector from the Un pont sur l'infini sector. Gymnastic climbing leads to massive holds where a rest can be had before the crux. Heel-toe cam your way through the V6ish crux and punch it through a pumpy sequence utilizing side pulls, underclings and pockets, with lots of twisting and rolling. Regain some composure on the flat jug on the arete, then cowboy up for the red point crux before the anchors that has broken many hearts. One of the most sought after 8a's at Ceuse.
Second route from the extreme right of Demi Lune.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
7 bolts total certainly adds to the excitement.