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Carrots for Everyone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: See Guidbook
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Submitted By: Eric Schnepel on Feb 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Climb to a high first bolt, then follow jugs over a few bulges to the anchor.


Sport. The first bolt is very high (25ish feet). The runout to the first bolt can be protected with a half inch cam. However, these moves are fairly easy and secure.

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By Peter Rakowitz
From: Portland, OR
Aug 3, 2011

Definitely wished I had some gear in once I got about 4 feet under the first bolt, but the climbing to the bolt was easy and the rest was super fun.
By mcompton Compton
Sep 18, 2011

This route and immediate area handle rain well. Rock stays pretty dry in most conditions.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Basically steep 5.9 climbing with a couple soft 5.10a moves tossed in. Really fun route!
If you've done the normal 5.10a sequence(around a bit to the left of the 2nd bolt) consider trying to go slightly right and straight up past the 2nd bolt. Powerful and super fun, the variation runs about 5.10d.
By Kev
Apr 23, 2015

Actually....when we put that route up, we never even considered going left. We just kept going up and slightly right of the bolt. It was not until a while later that I saw someone stepping left. I are missing one of the best moves on the route. Up and right I still give 10.a.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 23, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Haha that explains the somewhat difficult clip if you are following the 10a version. As far as going straight up, I personally felt the move was about as hard as Rolling Thunder (10d).
By Josh Golden Eagle
Jun 17, 2015

Neither my partner nor myself felt that 1/2 inch cam (or other pro) would hold a fall in shallow flared cracks before 1st bolt. We didn't see any other options for protection.

Have climbed this route several times, and I do agree climbing to first bolt is fairly easy.

Just trying to say, climber beware.
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

That first clip is so nerve-wracking when you decide to go for it.
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Jun 6, 2016

I used a blue TCU below the first bolt, near that flared crack. I felt it was a good placement, though not very deep.

Really fun climb.
By Abe Coir
Jul 20, 2016

Was yesterday and there is a Robin's nest on the route. Route setters are requesting that people don't climb.
By Kev
Aug 10, 2016

I have found lots of slammer gear before the first bolt. Off to the right and right in the middle. Plus the huge obvious flake down and right of the first bolt.

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