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Carpet Slabber 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Joe Cote, Bob & Jeff Fraser, Al Lapraddle Dec 1973
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Jamescolinwalsh17 on Jun 21, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Topo/Sketch for the whole Carpet Slab

Description 

A fun little route that is the perfect choice for a beginning leader. Simply climb the route to the anchor, passing two old bolts. [see 2016 NOTE, bolts replaced]

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

[2016 NOTE: Somewhere along the line this climb got "cut in half", probably because the "natural, straight up" line above the "pitch 1" anchor is about 5.5 -5.6 R and totally out of context with "pitch 1." But the "second pitch" (or, almost certainly, the second half of a one-pitch FA) goes up a dike to the right of the "straight up line" above the anchor.

Webster's Editions 2 and 3 state this climb "climbs the right side of the slab past several bolts 5.3". Here is what I am nearly certain is a modern version of the correct route description:

P1 - Start at an obvious tree-root and dirt ledge at the right side of the slab. Climb the slab past two bolts with an option to belay at a bolted anchor off to the left. 85-90 ft 5.2
P2 - From the belay, move up and right about 20 ft to where a dike starts and rises back left. Make a move up and left gaining the dike. ("crux", 1973 "Joe Cote" bolt in the dike.) Continue up the dike passing one more 1973 bolt on the right. 120 ft 5.4 - 5.5 (i.e. "old school" 5.3) When/if you clip the 1973 bolt coming from the bolted anchor you will know why this climb was nearly certainly first climbed as a one-pitch climb without that anchor.

DESCENT: Rap with two ropes (or one 70meter rope) from the tree to the belay station, then a 2nd rap (single 60m OK here) to the ground.

P2 Variation: Climb directly up the "headwall" from the P1 anchor. 110 ft 5.5? - 5.6? R
Note added by R. Hall NH Admin. June 2016]

Location 

This is the first route you come to when hiking into the cliff. Look for two old (but solid) bolts [see 2016 NOTE, bolts replaced] on a low angled slab at the far right end of the cliff. The "P1" anchor is not visible from the base, but is located to the right of a bush growing on the slab.

Protection 

2 bolts on "pitch 1", 2 more bolts on "pitch2".
Bolted anchor at the end of "pitch 1", tree at the end of "pitch 2"


Photos of Carpet Slabber Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "P2" of Carpet Slabber - 2nd of 2 old bo...
BETA PHOTO: "P2" of Carpet Slabber - 2nd of 2 old bo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Far right side of the Carpet Slab - "Carpet S...
BETA PHOTO: Far right side of the Carpet Slab - "Carpet S...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1973 Joe Cote bolt at the start of "P2" ...
BETA PHOTO: 1973 Joe Cote bolt at the start of "P2" ...

Comments on Carpet Slabber Add Comment
Show which comments
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Oct 11, 2010

Two old bolts with home made flat bar stock hangers lead to a two bolt anchor. From here you can make a longish run-out up and right to another bolt, then trend up and left to a sling and quick link anchor at a tree. Many of the old hangers are hard to clip, and one required tying it off with webbing as there was no room to get the nose of a carabiner in it. I would not call the second "pitch" a wise choice for a beginning leader. Info from Oct. 10, 2010.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Also to know that there is no webing on the two bolt anchors at the top of the first pitch

[ See 2016 NOTE, below]
By chinos
Jul 2, 2011

someone added a 3/8" bolt next to the old 1/4" 3rd bolt to split it into two pitches i guess. from there i agree with EDGE, a bit runout and dirty for a beginner. Someone should replace those old manky 1/4" bolts, i doubt they would hold a fall! fun route tho! It can be done in one nice long pitch as well.
By Dan Felix
Aug 26, 2012

Climbed/scrambled this route today with my kids. I left a 3/8" screw link on each anchor at the top. Figured the screw links would last longer than webbing...

[2016 NOTE: This anchor is now "set" with good bolts and a quick link ("screw link") for rapping. Also, someone has replaced the "Pitch 1" bolts with 3/8" SS bolts. Bob Hall, NH Admin. ]