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Carpe Stalactite 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Byrnes
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: John Byrnes on Mar 28, 2014

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Jeff moving into the powerful lower crux on Carpe ...

Description 

Climb pockets and tufas, past a powerful lower crux, to where you can stem the stalactite and get a no-hands rest. Carpe the stalactite, step over onto it, and climb it on the outside. Cop a rest at the mini-cave (left knee pad) and then punch it for the anchors over steep pockets and tufas, with the main crux right before the anchors.

Location 

Start off a boulder at the right side of Dixon's Wall below an obvious large stalactite.

Protection 

7 titanium bolts + anchor.


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By Chris. T.
Mar 28, 2014

An instant classic! My favorite route of the week on the island.
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 8, 2015

Never done anything like this. Stellar movement, crazy stalactite stemming, and some of the best rock on the island. Savor the cryptic 5.10+ pocket pulling on your way to the upper crux on incredible stone. Definitely my favorite route of the trip.

Also, I love the way this was bolted. Keep it together at the crux!

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