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Carpe Diem 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gray, Fisher, and Wine
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: BrianWS on Jun 6, 2017

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Description 

Fantastic movement, stone, and position --- and questionable bolt positions.

Fun moves up a pocketed face bring you to a ledge. More excellent face climbing from the ledge. Be very solid at the grade, or bring supplemental pro to prevent a very possible ledge fall.

At the roof, figure out the right beta, marvel at the silly bolt placement, and be rewarded with an absolutely stunning view of the valley and river below.


A really good climb, but the ledge fall potential and odd bolt position for the roof detract from the overall quality. Not recommended for budding 5.10 leaders.

Location 

Continue right past hummingbird until you see a ramp leading up to a small platform. There are two lines here - the left route being a red tagged project, and the right is Carpe Diem.

Protection 

6 bolts. Small to medium nuts or cams to protect between bolts three and four.


Comments on Carpe Diem Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWS
Jun 7, 2017

If you follow the obvious sequence at the roof, it puts you pretty far out from the bolt - the fall looks very exciting. There is a hangerless bolt here, indicating that the route used to be bolted accordingly. Great line nonetheless
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Jun 7, 2017

Disagree about the 'obvious sequence' at the roof. Pull it straight at the roof, there are great holds that you just can't see from below, keeps you right by the bolt.
By BrianWS
Jun 7, 2017

It's a blind reach direct, whereas you can clearly see the heavily chalked pocket and former bolt out right from the stance below the roof. I'd say that's a much more natural weakness and obvious line at the grade than going direct.

Either way, great climb -- just questionably equipped. It happens.

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