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Another One For the Books T 
Arêtenophobia  S 
Carolina In My Mind S,TR 
Corn Beef Hash T 
Corn Dog Crack T,TR 
New Noise T 
Yet another 5.7 corner (aka Erica's Sister, Right?) T 

Carolina In My Mind 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Conor Mark, Kristofer Fiore 5/20/14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Conor Mark on Jul 15, 2014

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Description 

Reminiscent of southern slabs. Gain an undercling to a stance at the first bolt. Move left of the bolt then back right to gain the second bolt with difficulty (clip from hidden jug). Easy climbing leads to a thin pull over the crux bulge. Easy slab (unprotected, optional cam) to the anchor.

Location 

Start on the ledge 10ft right of Aretenophobia

Protection 

4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor


Photos of Carolina In My Mind Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Carolina in My Mind follows the line of the rope.
Carolina in My Mind follows the line of the rope.

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By Seth Maciejowski
Jul 29, 2014

We tried this route this afternoon. It has some cool moves, but we were completely stymied by the upper crux. After breaking the only large hold on the bulge off (the side pull), there's virtually nothing to grab up above. Maybe we were missing something, but seems very hard for the grade....
By Derek Doucet
Aug 11, 2014

We had a similar experience. The moves up to the crux bulge were pleasant face climbing, but neither my partner or I could pull the bulge, which is to put it mildly, rather unusual at the reported grade. We also scoped it on rappel, and there didn't appear to be anything we were missing. There is an obvious rock scar below and left of the bolt on the bulge which had us wondering if something has broken. If not, I predict the consensus grade may creep upwards a bit...
By Kris Fiore
Administrator
From: Burlington, Vermont
Sep 17, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I wonder if something got ripped off at the crux although the scar is from an early attempt before the FA so I don't know that a hold was there when we sent it. We suggested 10d/11a as a rating and it seemed pretty fair at the time but it's possible something broke off since then. I plan on being in the area again soon so maybe I'll try it again and see how it goes. Sorry for the sandbag, honest mistake I swear! haha.
By Derek Doucet
Sep 18, 2014

No worries! Maybe Trav, Seth, Derrek and I just missed something. Stranger things have happened!
By Conor Mark
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 19, 2014

I climbed it again the other day, still goes as I remember it. The broken side pull didn't seem to affect the difficulty, it's smaller now but more in cut. Still don't know what to grade it, but I'm glad folks have been on it.
By Derek Doucet
Sep 21, 2014

Huh. Either we all missed something or you guys are climbing waaaay harder than you think! I'll go back and have another look for sure.

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