REI Community
Wailing Sax Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Auld Lang Syne T 
Birdland T 
Carola's Hip T 
Flakey Puffs From Hell TR 
Holy Cross T 
In A Silent Way  T 
Jo Mama T 
Made In The USA T 
Maiden Voyage T 
Misha's Madness T 
Morning After, The T 
New Year's Quickie T 
Sanctify Yourself T 
Satchmo T 
Take Five T 
Tipples in Rime TR 
Wailing Sax T 
Unsorted Routes:

Carola's Hip 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Goyette, January 1988
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Apr 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Agina Sedler belayed by Nathan Fitzhugh on a beaut...

Description 

This is a fairly nice route, with some offwidth and an overhang.

Location 

In the center of the Wailing Sax Wall, there are two bolted face routes: "In A Silent Way" and "Maiden Voyage." Just to the right of these climbs is a crack that runs from bottom to top. It has some obvious wide sections.

Protection 

standard rack, with a little offwidth gear


Photos of Carola's Hip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Agina Sedler at the start.
Agina Sedler at the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Agina Sedler at the roof.
Agina Sedler at the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Smiling Albert Ramirez passing the roof.
Smiling Albert Ramirez passing the roof.

Comments on Carola's Hip Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 31, 2012

Not bad and takes regular gear in the 2" range. The wide stuff is easily climbed around using the many face holds and good edges. After turning the fake roof, I went out left and clipped the last two bolts on Maiden Voyage and finished up at those rap anchors. Pretty nice pitch done this way and you don't have to haul gear to set up your own anchor, or grovel up the rest of the low angle wide stuff. The upper part of Maiden Voyage is plenty easy and not run out. No worries, and it goes at maybe 5.7 or so.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 31, 2012

Nice route, fun pulling the little roof. Sticking to the route (unlike the hybrid method mentioned above) the crack gets wider after the roof, taking 4"+ gear. The section itself climbs mostly outside of the crack with many features. Belay at the top, gear anchor with larger pieces. Decent using one of the various bolted anchors (if available) or scrambling down a gully to the climbers right to the base.
By Dan Evans
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 6, 2015

Once you pull the roof (pretty easy and quite fun) the climb eases significantly. Don't let the offwidth scare you off. Ample face features to the climbers left go at 5.5 on big face holds. There are a few 5.7 moves down low leading to the roof but protect just fine. Bring two #4 cams. A #5 would be useful but all the moves where you would place it are really easy. A #4 can be placed to protect the roof. Confident leaders shouldn't have any issues here.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About