|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||toddgordon Gordon on Aug 10, 2013|
|Comments on Carlos Danger||Add Comment|
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 9, 2014
I see you guys are showering this route with stars but the only shower I found was the rock quality on my belayer. Fun enough start which is short lived before hitting the ledge. I figured there was enough space before the headwall to avoid rope drag but I was wrong. Back cleaned the 1st draw after the ledge then used long runners. Rope drag is horrendous and the rock is devoid of quality. What you will find is very loose rock, flakes that want to detach and was blowing my buzz so much I took. Which was double trouble, as I was seriously questioning how good the bolts could be.
I had high hopes for this route. I was okay with the giant ledge in the middle but in the end, I was disappointed. Poor quality rock, giant mid-way ledge, grains, flakes & drag. If that doesn't scare you off I highly recommend leading the entire route with runners and belay from top as the drag is.... well....a drag.
Sorry Todd et al.