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Unsorted Routes:

Carey Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Wiessner, 1935
Page Views: 5,793
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 22, 2006

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Approaching the final corner

Description 

This is the prominant dihedral just right of the Skull and Bones block. Climb through a fist-sized crack to the dihedral and the up the corner to the top.

Protection 

Standard Ragged rack


Photos of Carey Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Carey Corner
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Carey Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Me finishing Carey Corner
Me finishing Carey Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Carey Corner Upper
Carey Corner Upper
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug starting up Carey Corner
Doug starting up Carey Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, on Carey Corner, shortly after falling and hit...
Me, on Carey Corner, shortly after falling and hit...

Comments on Carey Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 7, 2016
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jan 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever climbed, including at the gunks.
By Jim O'Brien
From: Branford, CT
Oct 31, 2008

On the top 5 list of sandbagged climbs, the upper dihedral goes in the 5.8+ range.
By CODJOL
Nov 11, 2008

This is a great 5.7+ climb, perfect for someone who wants a good intro to crack climbing. It does get harder as you go over the ledge about 3/4 of the way up, but is an interesting crack climb after that point because you have two to work with and experiment with. The beginning can be a little bit tricky if your not used to the cracks. Some will try to subvert the crack an look for handholds, but there are only smears out to the sides. Basically, if you get through the first 25 feet, and get a feel for the technique, then you should be able to easily get up the route.
By Mulligan
Mar 16, 2009

This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever done. I haven't actually led it clean but the last time I tried was 2 years ago, so Im gonna go back this weekend and try again.
By Mulligan
Apr 24, 2009

So I finally led this clean. After a strong season in Joshua Tree onsighting a couple of the harder 5.10 trad routes I was able to make a redpoint of the infamous Carey Corner. But seriously this thing is way hard.
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Amazing climb. Absolutely the hardest "5.7" I have ever done. I will give it 5.8, even though I have definitely cruised easier 5.9s.

With that said, this is my favorite climb at Ragged so far. Definitely need some legit crack technique. It'll make you work for it, that's for sure. Saved my #4 for the top, but didn't end up using it.
By David Friend
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I led this, staying in the crack to place pro. Definitely felt difficult for the grade, especially in the small hands crux near the top. Then my girlfriend flew up it on top rope, using the faces and stemming.

I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner.
By John Peterson
Jun 7, 2012

The FA's are out of the green book.

I can shoot John Reppy an email and ask. My understanding is that he had talked to Wiessner a found Wiessner had done some of his presumed first ascents.

I placed the entire guide as a comment on the Ragged Mountain page. You'll note that at the time they didn't know about Wiessner's ascent of Vector either.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My partner who followed me on this proclaimed "this is the hardest climb i've ever done." Yes, he is dramatic, but seriously... 5.7?
By FourT6and2
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 28, 2015

Climbed this route yesterday. Yeah... it's hard. Really fun. But I cussed and cursed the whole way up haha! The last like... 2 moves—maybe 10 feet from the top—was the hardest part for me. The first half, up to the ledge in the middle, was easy. I don't know if I even want to try it again to get it clean. It was that painful.
By JRM89
From: New Haven, CT
Feb 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I just bailed on a 5.7. That was embarrassing. I wanted to disappear. Sure it was wet, but a 5.7? Yeah - agreed about this being a bit of a sandbagged rating.... or I suck, or both. :)
By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Feb 22, 2016

It might be a 5.9 at most places. Where was it wet?
By JRM89
From: New Haven, CT
Feb 28, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just at the very bottom... first few moves. Went back today and was drier!
By DontHassleMeImLocal
May 23, 2016

I find it interesting watching the suggested grade for this route (and many other classics at ragged and CT) steadily increase over time. Not sure if it’s the influx of new gym climbers, or what, but 5.9 for Carey Corner? Cmon. Just because you lack the specific technical ability to ascend a route casually, doesn’t mean the grade should be changed. Instead, master the technique and you will understand why the grade is what it is. Its like anything else….if you want to excel at a technique or route, you must train for that route. Weissner was an excellent offwidth climber. There are other wide 5.7 cracks in CT that are equally as hard and demanding. Carey Corner climbs exactly the same level of difficulty as many OW climbs in the Woo and the Valley. Which ever way you approach the upper section of Carey, it is 5.7 (ill even say 7+). Sure it may FEEL harder to you, but to suggest that the grade IS harder is a cop-out.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
May 24, 2016

I know Ken's book has it as 7+... not a far stretch to come up with 8- given range of body types.
By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
May 26, 2016

Its 5.7 to all the locals who TRed it a thousand times before they ever thought of leading it, similar to 5.7s at all the old school crags. the woo, lol.
By DontHassleMeImLocal
Jun 2, 2016

that may be true Mr Mobley, but I onsighted the route and did not FEEL it to be harder than 7+. Its like Unconquerable, if you know how to jam, the route is 5.9, if not, itll feel harder. however that is not fault of the route, but rather the climber. Anyone can avoid the offwidths on Baby or Vector and make the route a 10-12, but that doesn't mean it IS. Also, as with most climbs, the more you work it and dial in the beta, the more itll feel like the suggested grade. Dol Guldor felt incredibly hard upon first trying it. now its my warmup. Whether you choose to lead it or rehearse on TR, that's your own adventure...
By thebmags
Jun 3, 2016

Would it be possible to get this listed as a 5.7 again, the sandbag was half the fun
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 3, 2016

The listed grade is now based on consensus... So in theory it could end up back at 5.7...

mountainproject.com/v/route-ra...
By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Jun 5, 2016

I'm not too sure what toproping Dull Goldor into submission has to do with anything(besides spray?) but I've done many easier 5.7s in historically sandbagged areas so I agree with most folks that it deserves at least an 8 at the least. I also kind of agree with bmags that being able to keep its original rating is half the fun but it wouldn't matter much since CT's traprock is hardly more than a one time destination for anyone from out of the area.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 7, 2016

From my few forays to CT climbing areas I've noticed that CT climbers like to sandbag outsiders. In my opinion, as an experienced crack climber from the ADK's, this is probably stout 5.8 versus moderate 5.9 - but who cares - it is an awesome pitch with great gear - so get on it!! And you don't need big gear necessarily. Also several brick-sized loose chockstones in the R crack that someone knocked out and almost hit me! Watch out!