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Careno Corners 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,421
Submitted By: ScottH on Aug 19, 2007

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Seth Lundeen Rocking the 3rd pitch of Careno Corne...

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This is an enjoyable climb to the upper tier on Careno Crag. The only drawbacks are a wandering line near the beginning, forcing short pitches, and a short section of 3rd class terrain. It is possible to link this route to the Bale/Kramar, Foo Killer, and any of the routes above the upper tier.

P1. Begin right of the Bale/Kramar, climbing a steep crack up, then right. Gain a sloping rail and traverse left to a belay under the large roof (shared with BK). 5.9

P2. From the belay, head left around the roof then follow an easy gully up and right on 3rd class terrain to a large ledge and the base of a wide corner. The hardest moves on the pitch are avoiding the very large and loose blocks near the belay.

P3. Grunt and sweat up an imposing wide corner for ~30' where it narrows to hands and fists. Cracks deep in the corner and on the adjacent wall offer additional holds and gear. 5.9

P4. A steep crack pulls over a small lip, then breaks left. Alternatively, climb the wide crack to the same point. Follow broken terrain up and left to the upper ledge. (5.8-5.9). A nice variation goes up a finger crack/face to the belay on top of Foo Killer instead of continuing left on easier ground. From here, connect with the regular route to gain the large ledge. 5.9


Start immediately right of Bale/Kramar, near the left edge of the rock.


Gear to 4". I was happy to have both a 3.5" and 4" camalot. 1st pitch is bolted, all other belays on gear.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Careno Corners 5.9
Careno Corners 5.9

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By Serge Smirnov
May 2, 2016

P3 is more straightforward if you bring at least one of {#5,#6}. I brought both and saw no need for a #4. Probably any combination of 2 of those 3 cams would work.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2016

Would give this route 1 star except for the pitch that is pictured on the page which seemed to be part of a different route.

Pretty dirty climbing with short, fun sections. I had to do a fair amount of gardening on route.

I didn't see this mentioned but after the easy gully I climbed a corner up to a slightly kicked back offwidth-ish slot that protected fine with #1's in the back. It was a fun section and felt about 5.9. We brought a #4 and never used it anywhere. Guy above me mentions a 5 and a 6, seems like those would've just been in the way for me. I was able to get a piece right in the middle of the short section that was a #1.

Above on the ledge head right a bit and there's a cool looking corner between a few bolted lines. I have no idea if this was part of the route or not but it was in the 5.9 range. Easy climbing leads to a steeper double set of cracks that makes for fun stemming and jamming. This was the best pitch of an otherwise forgettable/dirty route. I highly recommend doing it.

There was an easy to find rap line that we did with a single 70m. 3 raps took us down, no walkoff necessary. I can't say whether a 60m would've reached.

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