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The Wizard
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Cardiac Arete (AKA Talisman) T 
Yellow Brick Road T 

Cardiac Arete (AKA Talisman) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Laeger & Miledi
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Southeast Arete in profile just left of Shiver Me ...

Description 

The distinction between this route and the "Golden Needles" is unclear to me. I thought they might share the first pitch, and then Golden Needles veers slightly left whereas this route follows the bolt line up. That's one possibility anyway. The other is that Golden Needles begins somewhere else?

The climbing is good - a reasonably well-protected climb up a completely rad system of ribs, scoops, and aretes.

This begins on the SE corner of the Wizard, just across from Piranha and Parasite in the same alcove from which they begin.

P1: Climb up scoops and ribs of rock past an old bolt and several new bolts to a good belay stance. Slightly run out, 5.10.

P2: Continue up the incredibly steep face and arete past many closely spaced bolts. Tread lightly through a couple cruxes on a few friable holds and flakes. Rap back down from a two-bolt anchor.

I think we got down with a single 70m rope, but don't quote me on that.

Protection 

Quickdraws.


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By Kristian Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 2, 2014

Edit to correct info:

The bolted line up the arete by Laeger and Miledi is called Cardiac Arete. Two pitches, 5.10b and 5.11. "Ends where the holds run out" (Herb)

Two 50M raps.

FYI: I've chatted with Laeger about this climb a couple times. He thinks that somehow it got named twice. That is, Talisman and Cardiac Arete are the same climb.

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