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Mormon Hollow
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1. Unnamed route (left side) S 
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 
14. T 
15. T 
15a. Direct start to 15 T 
17 T,TR 
Arrhythmia S 
Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 
Chimney, The T 
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 
Excessive Force S 
Excessive Tunnel Power S 
Original Sin T 
Power Dive S 
Priapism S 
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 
Tidal Wave (route 2) S 
Tree Crack T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: TR, soloed by Eric Sutton, late 1980s
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: will ar on Dec 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Dean starting up the arete.

Raven Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the left side of the arete, and work your way to the right following the line of bolts to the crimpy finish. If anyone knows the original name or FA info, please post up.

Location 

Ascend the arete on the right side of the large roof on Africa Buttress.

Protection 

Quickdraws.


Comments on Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) Add Comment
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By ward smith
Oct 28, 2016

Cardiac Arête, originally a top rope that was soloed by Eric Sutton in the late 1980s.
By dlevar
From: Amherst, MA
Apr 2, 2017

There's a chance of seriously damaging the rope when falling on this route. I had to chop ~3m.
By will ar
From: San Antonio, TX
Apr 4, 2017

"There's a chance of seriously damaging the rope when falling on this route. I had to chop ~3m."
Where did you fall, and what did your rope get damaged on? I haven't fallen on the route, so I can't be sure, but I don't recall any sharp features that your rope could run over.
By Andy Casler
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 10, 2017

I core-shot a rope falling at the top crux of this route Saturday. Couldn't reach the poorly-placed last bolt to clip a draw, so I pulled into the top crux just before the chains and popped off there. The rope must have gotten snagged on the arête, and it nearly severed. The last bolt should either be moved lower or hung with a perma-draw so leaders shorter than 6' can get the top draw clipped before pulling into the crux.

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