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Cardhu Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Glen Payan 97'
Page Views: 2,264
Submitted By: Mike Teschke on May 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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BETA PHOTO: Cardhu Crack Topo


A nice hand crack. Worth a little more attention than it receives. Could use a litle cleaning in the crack but still fun as is.


Just left of a steep treed gully, about 150 feet to the right of Klahanie crack. Starts up an easy left facing corner then up into a hand crack.


Cams .5 to #2 Camelots and nuts. Save a #1 or #2 for the top. Can be rapped to a treed gully above and to the right of the start with a 60m rope.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. We used two ropes to get off. One could rap the side with a single 60m and get off I think. Chain anchor. I placed a #3, but one could do without it.
By Chris Keefe
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

fantastic climb. A bit slimy at the top, and still fantastic.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jun 27, 2013

Pleasant surprise, this route a great complement to Klahanie Crack. Short distinct crux where the crack crosses the dyke, cruisey elsewhere.

A 70m just barely reaches the base when rapping. For top-roping you might want to think about extending the anchor a bit. Don't worry about the rope lengths too much though, as the first five meters are low 5th. Very down-climbable.
By BrettAtBond
Aug 17, 2014

Can be lowered with a 60m to the roots at the right. Super fun. Hop on this while in the area.
By Ryan Lynne
Jun 6, 2016

Really good climbing and definitely worth doing if you are in the area.

Note that it is much longer than it appears from the bottom as it keeps going over the crest. Bring some larger pieces for this top part that is not visible from the ground (BD C4's #2 and #3).

Best to have a 70 meter rope for this one but a 60 meter can be used with some shenanigans. Use the treed slope off to the right of the climb.

Tie knots in your rope for this one or better yet have your belayer tie in.
By natsdad
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Hand jams. Finger locks. Stemming. Good gear throughout. This is a great, long, user-friendly route on solid rock. And now it is the first pitch to a 5 pitch long multi-pitch route. Nice!

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