|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Chet Sutterlin, Bob Bury, 1977|
|Submitted By:||JohnK on Apr 22, 2008|
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|Comments on Carabid||Add Comment|
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By another Chad
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Carabid starts roughly thirty feet to the right of Drill 'em and Fill 'em and follows a lumpy crack system that angles left. Climb twenty feet to a brushy ledge and then another one-hundred twenty feet to the top of the climb. There's a black sling and a ring around a small pinnacle which can be used as an anchor. A three-bolt anchor is located left and down from the sling anchor which is in a less convenient location but is less nerve racking.
Bring your partner up. Cleaning this line on rappel totally sucks (which I had the misfortune of doing in a rainstorm). A single rope rappel will get you to the anchors atop Drill 'em and Fill 'em. One more rappel will get you back to the ground.
Carabid isn't particularly hard to protect. It's so slabby though that falling would almost always be hazardous. A standard rack of singles up to 3" worked well. Having a set of hexes or an extra set of large nuts would be helpful. Putting runners on just about every piece will mitigate the rope drag.
Be vigilant about loose rocks as anything knocked off near the top will bomb the people on the right half of the Phoenix Buttress (which is almost always busy). It's not a chossy climb but you'll run into some loose rock. Lastly, make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet.
By Andrew Child
Oct 3, 2016
I don't really think that this route needs a pg13 rating. The climbing is very easy and the protection felt solid. There are a few short sections of bad rock, but nothing more than 10 feet or so.
You could probably rap straight back to the belay ledge with a single 70m rope.