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Car Jack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Timsahb on Dec 10, 2014

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  • The area is private land MORE INFO >>>
  • Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is one of the best climbs on Mek's Mountain, the first 2/3 of the route is a 5.9 and can be lead of TR up to two bolts for use as an anchor. The last 1/3 up a slab with an arete is the 5.10c part with the crux being the second last move. It starts down on the jungle floor and you climb up a crack with an 90 degree wall to the side. Climbing up to a thin crack to a boulder. Once on the boulder and now above the tree line is the two bolts for an anchor for a shorter 5.9 route. The top slab has great exposure and you move up to an arete, followed by a mantle to sit on the top of the slap and access the hanging anchor.

    Location 

    The route is located under Fraggle rock (or Sairee rock) and is a 10 min walk from the car park area along a concrete path thought the jungle and then down under the rock and is the first set of bolts you come to.

    Protection 

    10 x 12mm PETZL expansion bolts. The anchor is hanging from a rock above and can be accessed from the top of Fraggle rock and consists of 3 x bolts with static climbing rope and opposing biners as the master point to clip the rope into. You can also Trad climb the first 2/3 of the climb.


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