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Capulin Classic 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 575
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Capulin Classic area.

Description 

Must have been climbed at some point; this is almost the definition of a classic climb.

Optional belay at 50ft on a nice ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag). Sweet 10- OW to the big ledge, then hands to thin hands forever. Pinches down to fingers and then tips right near the top.

Location 

Look for the most obvious crack up canyon from Red Tail Tower (see overview topo).

Protection 

Doubles from grey camalot to green Camalot. 3 or 4 reds, 3 golds, 1 blue, 1#6, #5 optional, nuts optional. Maybe take a green alien.


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By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Apr 8, 2014

Bring a red C3 for the tips.
A 70m rope just barely doesn't make it from the top anchors to the lower anchor. You need to either swing hard right to Vicar anchors or bring a 2nd rope.