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Captains of Industry 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Glenn Ritter
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jan 17, 2016

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Captains of Industry- 12d.

Description 

A quality route with a slopey start on perfect black rock, an easier middle that wanders over a juggy roof, and a crux jump that gains a challenging roof.

Reach high for some good holds over a chest-height roof. Move right to a large hueco, and go straight up on very slopey edges and shelves until you reach better holds.

Cut left on jugs until you can reach a rail below the roof at mid-height. Then move back right along the rail, pull the roof using jugs and heel hooks, and head up an arete to a no-hands rest below another roof.

An easy traverse to the right along a horizontal crack leads to a final shake below the redpoint crux. Set up on a sidepull, and jump to a good hold below the airy horizontal roof that caps the entire wall. Core-sapping moves on decent finger buckets lead out the roof to a clipping jug at the lip of the wall.

You could top out if you wanted!

Beware of the questionable flakes in the roof at the top.

Location 

Left of Rockefeller.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners. The last four bolts are fixed with old webbing draws that have sticky gates.


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