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Captain's Log 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,127
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Jan 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Captain's Log


A "slab" climb with a very tricky start; I've seen 5.5 leaders back off this route, as the starting move isn't well-protected. I've also seen several people continue straight up the face, while the route actually goes up and left; you can wander into some distinctly not 5.4 territory if you're not careful. There's a shelf with some greenery in it, nearly at the top; you want to stay left of that.


Start on top of the block at base of the face; climb obvious seam to the top, trending left. Easy walk-off.


Pro is adequate, but can be fiddly to place. Bolts 10' back from the top.

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By Valerie Bachinsky
From: West Sand Lake, NY
Jul 10, 2010

A little hard to toprope due to how the route wanders left and right up the wall. We remedied this be just going straight up over the bulge(5.5) near the top.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 12, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Skip it and lap Kling-on instead.

If you top rope it, I'd suggest going straight up the middle of the face and make it a 5.5-5.6 climb with a nice bulge near the end. The route probably stays far left on the wall and the swing off the anchor would be ouch, even with whatever directional you could manage to place.
By Trevor Smith
Sep 24, 2012

Lead up it, had the second clear it and the third TR it. First move is definitely the crux, but not a bad climb after that. Like everyone else said, decent gear (only my third gear lead), relatively easy moves, just watch the swing at the top if you are top roping and your climber isn't as experienced. Would recommend if you are like me and using Peterskill as a trad-practice area.
By Artie Morenz
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I don't understand why the description says the starting move is hard to protect. There is a vertical crack at the start that is EZ to protect with cams. Fun climb.

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