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Captain Tombstoner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Aaron Huey, 1999
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 3, 2011

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Great location

Description 

Bolted crack/flake thingy that flares open at the top enough to accept extra-thin climbers and midgets. Burly boys can just lieback left a bit with generous knobs/edges on either side.

The Huey lists it as "9+/10-," but the lieback felt secure at 9 and my wafer-thin after dinner mint partner said jamming and then squeezing through OW style felt pretty soft, too. Call it a 9 no matter whacha do.

Location 

The very first crack after you scramble down (or around) the Daily Planet boulder. Can't miss it. If you DO come around DP, you'll see that Captain Tombstoner actually does ascend the left side of a huge, tombstone-like flake.

Protection 

Four bolts + 2-bolt chain anchor.


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By Wyatt H
Jun 12, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You don't even need to jam or layback - just reach inside the crack and grab the bomber lip around the corner. I can't lead 9s or even 8s and I found this pretty easy. I think 7 is generous. Fun though.
By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 18, 2014

Ascends the right side of the flake, not the left.

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