REI Community
Eavesdown Docks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alliance, The S 
Black Market Beagles S 
Browncoat S 
Bushwhacked S 
Canceled S 
Captain Hammer S 
Captain Mal S 
Captain Tight Pants S 
Companion, The S 
Damage My Calm S 
Firefly S 
Jubal S 
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 
Out of Gas S 
Out to the Black S 
Shindig S 
Stolen Rope S 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 
Too Pretty to Die  S 

Captain Tight Pants 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek & Perin Blanchard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Captain Tight Pants is sure to be a popular route....

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A pocket-pulling start with lousy feet that is best gotten through quickly leads to a couple of underclings from which you set out through a thin, reachy, and slightly cerebral section using a fair amount of exertion to much-anticipated larger holds, and a breathy, balancy bit of 5.10 to easier ground. Follow the large pockets, edges and flake of Out of Gas to the top.

Although a bit of a two-move wonder, sending Captain Tight Pants is never-the-less a satisfying endeavor.


Located a few feet left of the large, right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. The line leads over a roof with quite blank-looking rock above the roof.


10 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Out of Gas to the right).

Photos of Captain Tight Pants Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John Ross showing why pants get tight.
John Ross showing why pants get tight.
Rock Climbing Photo: Captain Tight Pants  Photo by Darren Knezek.
Captain Tight Pants Photo by Darren Knezek.

Comments on Captain Tight Pants Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Crux spoiler alert!
By Brennan Crellin
From: Millcreek, UT
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Although some will disagree (because of the overall route), this is easily a 5.11c.

It's one of those routes that highlights the issue with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The two crux moves on this route are very low. Each crux move is as hard/harder than any single move on a benchmark 5.11c, like License To Thrill. But 3/4 of the climb is 5.9 so overall it feels easier than 5.11c. But, the crux is definitely 5.11c, so on the YDS it's 5.11c
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Tall beta skips the bad right hand sidepulls and goes straight for the jug. Big move but probably not 11c. The large pocket has pointy teeth, barely worth the lost skin...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About