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Unsorted Routes:

Captain Nemo 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Cairns, 1976
Page Views: 10,163
Submitted By: Stephen Marsh on Oct 15, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (152)
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Hangin' out on pitch 2.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


The first pitch is one of the best moderates in the area, and for 5.10 climbers the second pitch should not be missed. This was one of my first climbs while learning trad and is a great introduction to the Voo. The easiest approach is to walk the entire length of the east side of Nautilus, past Friday the 13th. Walk around the north end, and then head back in the direction of the parking lot. Just past MaxiLash is a large roof with a dihedral leading to it.

P1 (5.8, 70') - climb the shelves below a left-facing dihedral, which goes to a right-facing dihedral as you turn the corner. The first pitch is a popular hand crack which starts off small and gets bigger as you go. End underneath the roof at the chain anchor.

P2 (10d, 80') - the start of this traverse lures you in, but the reason this is 10d lies just around the corner. The wall drops away, and the crack turns to flaring jams and slopers. Trying to place gear on this section is awkward to say the least (you might want to take off that helmet!). Pull over the bulge at the lip and belay at the anchors.


#0.5 - 3.5 Camalots, TCUs can be helpful.

Photos of Captain Nemo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thoroughly enjoying myself.
Thoroughly enjoying myself.
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse!
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch.
1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom, enjoying the crack after the roof.
Tom, enjoying the crack after the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan exiting the roof crack.
Ryan exiting the roof crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up the fun first pitch.
Climbing up the fun first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess liebacking pitch 1.
Jess liebacking pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping down from Captain Nemo with Matt waiting u...
Rapping down from Captain Nemo with Matt waiting u...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt enjoys a good jam after as the climb starts t...
Matt enjoys a good jam after as the climb starts t...

Comments on Captain Nemo Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 14, 2015
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Oct 18, 2005

Just some clarification, pitch 2 is not 80' long, it's 80' from the anchors to the ground.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 24, 2005

Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro...
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 25, 2007

You should consider ditching the helmet on P2. It is very difficult to see your gear placements, since they are in the back of the flare.
By David Bayendor
From: Denver, CO
Jun 29, 2009

I did the 1st pitch of this route with Craig Luebben, inventor of the Big Bro and Vedauwoo climbing hardman. Spent three days in a Vedauwoo clinic with Craig. This is a great pitch to work hand and fist jams on. I recommend taping, the insides of these cracks are pretty rough.

At this point the second pitch is a beyond me, but definitely worth coming back for.
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The second pitch is BURLY.
By Sam Stephens
Aug 22, 2011

Did pitch one, nothing but awesome.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The nut on the right bolt was loose when I climbed this on Labor Day, 2012. I finger tightened it, but a wrench would do a better job.

The hangers are older style, smaller SMC hangers. Hard to clip more than one carabiner.
By Evan Martin
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 21, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Pitch two is definitely worth it. Linking it with pitch 1 is fine if you sling your peices and don't place an excessive amount of gear on pitch 1. This also makes a potential fall softer than it would be otherwise. Used a few C3s and x4s on the 2nd pitch, which was perfect!
By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2014

If you fancy yourself as a roof crack technician, you'll love pitch 2. This was one of the only 10+ pitches we climbed that felt soft. Straightforward, solid gear (#1 C3 to #1 C4). Great climb, pitch one of Beefeater would be a great warm-up for P2 of Nemo.
By cstebbins024
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 9, 2014

New bolts for pitch one.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Feb 14, 2015

Only did the first pitch. Super fun corner climbing, definitely a great pitch in and of itself. The crux right before you turn onto the slabbier section is pretty polished inside the crack. My partner greased out of it there.

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