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Captain Longbeard 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp
New Route: Yes
Season: Any! (south facing)
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Nov 24, 2015

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Desire climbing Captain Longbeard


Captain Longbeard is the new continuation above "Captain Weirdbeard" and "Captain Albert Alexander." The route can be done in three pitches, two pitches, or maybe even one full rope length pitch with 15 draws (bring some long draws and slings for drag). Descend via multiple raps.
Possibly the best spot in the area for practicing multi-pitch.


3 pitches: 6 draws
2 pitches: 11 draws
1 pitch: 15 draws (use slings)

+ Chordalette for the top anchor.

Photos of Captain Longbeard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Captain Longbeard
Captain Longbeard
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben linking Captain Albert Alexander and Captain L...
Ben linking Captain Albert Alexander and Captain L...

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By Nick Black
From: Arcata, CA
Feb 2, 2016

You can lower of with a 60m, but you'll have to down climb the last move as the rope goes through the belay device! I'd recommend a 70m, just to be safe. Fun route, lots of exposure, worth doing if you do one of the lower routes.
By Evan Wisheropp
Feb 3, 2016

I agree. I don't know how much stretch my 60m 9.1mm rope has, but it was just enough to touch down with rope stretch. My thicker rope didn't have enough stretch to reach and i did two raps. Either way, don't forget the knot at the end!

Edit: Lately we've been doing an extra rap off the Ahab Slab anchors.

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