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Brown 25 T 
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Sgt. Saturn T 

Captain Kronos 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Howard King and Rob Fainberg, 1977
Page Views: 1,591
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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I certainly didn't think the entry to this climb w...


Listed in the Vogel guide as a 5.7, many an inspired young leader has come face to face with mortality with the opening moves of this route. The thin starting moves about 15 feet off the deck from a boulder, with somewhat tricky pro will give even steady 5.9 leaders pause.

Begin off a block slightly left of mid-formation. After the thin entry moves, continue up the right leaning hand crack to the top.

Descend to the climbers right.


Standard rack, small to start

Photos of Captain Kronos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Captain Kronos, Joshua Tree
Captain Kronos, Joshua Tree
Rock Climbing Photo: Kaptain Cronos
BETA PHOTO: Kaptain Cronos
Rock Climbing Photo: Captain Kronos, Joshua Tree
Captain Kronos, Joshua Tree
Rock Climbing Photo: Erin Brassil-Haas follows Jason Haas on Captain Kr...
Erin Brassil-Haas follows Jason Haas on Captain Kr...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 30, 2015
Jan 30, 2003

Ha! I remember this climb. Is'nt it so typical to show up at JTree with high hopes of bagging some sick hard lead, only to get beat down on the warm-up. Yea, it was hard, I was scared. Prolly bouldered the rest of the day.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2003

It's good to see the upgrading to 5.9! Having just climbed it (Feb. 03) thinking it was a 5.7, I felt quite sketched out. Big sandbag! Besides the "thin" start it is somewhat sustained and awkward.
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Nov 11, 2003

More comparable to Jerry Brown (at .10b) than to most 5.7s, in my opinion.
By Howard King
Oct 27, 2004

Are you people getting soft? I led this wearing cowboy boots with a head full of blotter acid. I never could climb anything harder than 5.7 on a good day.
By Robert Fainberg
Oct 27, 2004

Lets set the record straight. It was boxing gloves and roller skates and 5.7 in his wildest dreams.
By Richard Adler
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 28, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wow, a Howard King sighting on a climbing web site. Did you misread this address, Howard???? This not I'm gonna have to add this to my State and County lists.

And yes, I thought Capt. Kronos was hard for 5.7!!! Probably cuz I did it WITHOUT the cowboy boots and blotter!!!!

And Last year I saw the film "Captain Kronos, Vampire Killer." It's as bad as the route!!!


By Woody Stark
Nov 29, 2004

A good route but, curiously, more difficult than Brownian Motion (10a) next door.
By Adam Stackhouse
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

What a slug in the face Joshua Tree climbing was when we did this in 1989...5.7? Wow...what a way to introduce someone to Jtree trad....hahahaha
By joe-boo-boo
Mar 19, 2007

Green metolious can be place off the block in a shallow horizontail. You can then start from the begining or just go from the block.
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 21, 2007

This is one of those courses that probably won't be quite as much fun the second time around, because it won't make you think as much about how to do the start. A good pitch.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Enjoyed this climb alot have to return to do Jerry Brown.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 17, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Really good route! Deserves more stars than it gets. Once you pass the face move down low, it is continously enjoyable jamming all the way to the top. The face move about 15' off the ground protects perfectly with a pink tricam. You do have one of those on your rack don't you? :) I brought a #4 camalot and it went in perfectly at a wider spot.
By Tradiban
Jan 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I started from the ground, seemed logical. Only runout for a little bit in easier terrain. If not for rock quality this would get a solid three stars. Yes, not 5.7.
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Not a 5.7! Kind of ackward in the right leaning crack, more footholds on the face would have been nice. Started from the ground and it was definetly don't blow it territory.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Started from the ground with smallish bomber pro. Never for a moment thought it was 5.7 or R for that matter. Surprised to see that here on the Proj. Seemed obvious, place small gear low and follow the crack. It's slightly flared in a few areas but thought it was just me for the warm up, still took bomber gear. Didn't find it run out or sketchy and I'm not exactly a pro on leading cracks so a sandbag assessment this is not.

5.9 plenty of pro of all varieties. Wonderful ledge above leads to 2.5 - 3.5" crack or set anchor in the back with .5"+ or nuts. Plenty to love on Captain Kronos.

Oh, scramble up and over from the ledge. You can walk off back the back and climber's right or climber's left and down the chalkstones to the base (preferred method for me).
By JTLA Tolins
From: Los Angeles, California
Feb 27, 2014

I'm with Susan on this one. Rushed this in at the end of the day, while the sun was setting. never felt runout or sketchy and even felt calling it 5.9 was a bit of a stretch. I'm not a particularly bold climber and usually look for mid tens.
By Josh Baxley
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 30, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

I could not find any decent pro at the beginning of this route, at all. I actually down climbed, double checked I was on the right route, and read the above comments again on the mobile app. Still not sure if we're talking about the same route.

There is one crappy slot about 10 ft. up for a TCU, then it's another 10 ft or more to real gear. There's at least one insecure move until you get decent pro.

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