REI Community
Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acoplopse T 
Brush Turkey S 
Camera Obscura T 
Captain Hook S 
Chop, The T 
Consternation T,TR 
Dark Meat T 
Dark Side of the Moon T 
Double Trouble T 
Drumstick Direct T 
East Side Story T 
Easy Offwidth T 
Eclipse T 
For Turkeys Only T 
Gobble This T 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 
In Search of Unicorns T 
Inner Reaches T 
Jello Party T 
Johnny Lat S 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 
Left Side of the Key T 
Live Fire T 
Make the Cut T 
Piece of Cake T 
Quiver and Quill T 
Rasmussen Crack T 
Roofus T 
Second Helping T 
Shoo Kitty T 
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 
Sidewinder T 
Snake T 
Spider Lady T 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Termination T 
Turkey in the Straw T 
Turkey Turd T 
Turkey's Delight T 
Whimsical Dreams T 
Wild Turkey T 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 

Captain Hook 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,387
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Sep 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Joe Leonhard leading.


Captain Hook is located on the west face of the Turkey Tail (if Quivering Quill is on the north, and most of the routes on the south) around the corner from Quivering Quill. It starts on a large ledge and climbs the steep face on edges past four bolts. I thought the crux came passing the first bolt, but the pitch is sustained most of the way. The first bolt has a piece of grey sling on it. This is a fantastic face climb on solid rock (mostly).


Four quickdraws. There is no anchor, so it's necessary to either lower off the last bolt, or clean it and move over to the raps for Quivering Quill. We set an anchor up high in a crack and toproped the climb.

Comments on Captain Hook Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Leonhard
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2007

If I remember correctly, the crack up top takes #3, 3.5 and/or 4 Camalots. Use a runner to reduce rop drag over the lip.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 31, 2007

Excellent, sustained climbing. Cranking up to the diagonal crack I broke off one of the bigger edges just below the start of the crack.
By Joshh
From: Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2008

Fun sport route. Do you think it would make sense to put an anchor in place of the 4th bolt? It seems like everyone just lowers off that bolt anyways...would make it more safe.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2008

As of 9/08, that last bolt that everyone lowers from is looking really worn. It spins and there is some sign of it pulling away from the rock.
By Jason Haas
Dec 1, 2013

Someone chopped the last bolt, which doesn't change the safety or anything. The bolt was placed on top of the rock (where your feet stand hands free) and served as a one-bolt anchor. Currently you have to top out and build an anchor on hand-sized cams and then rap the Quivering Quill anchor.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About