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The Treasure Chest
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Booty S 
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Spread Eagle (aka Gritty Kitty) T,TR 

Captain Hook 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Morgan/Nunez, 2001
Page Views: 3,451
Submitted By: jared toettcher on Aug 24, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Aron reaching up for the big hold above the roof. ...


This route is FUN FUN FUN, and unique!

This route begins on the arete on the left side of the Treasure Chest area, and is the second bolt line from the left. Climb up the left face of the arete - holds around the arete are on route as well - and into the strange roof-chimney. Climb out of the chimney and up on the right side of the slightly overhung face above it.

I may be a little overly cautious giving this route the 's' rating, but climbing above the third bolt probably should scare you. Once over the roof you can't see your last clip, and remember: that bolt was drilled in overhung sandstone.


4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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By Avery Worthing-Jones
Sep 22, 2003

Great route! I have to admit I am glad I was topping it, going over the last bolt is nerve racking. Well worth the climb though. As an added bonus on your way down have your belayer stop you 3/4 of the way down and just take a moment to soak in some of the best scenery around while the waves crash below you.
By Vlad S
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Not nearly as fun as it's hyped up to be. Actually quite terrifying, especially if you have to lead it on a soaking wet rope. Also a bit runout after the 3rd (and last) bolt to the anchor. However, at least the brand new glue-ins are super safe thanks to Jimi's rebolting efforts!
By lwhyte
Aug 23, 2015

Loved this route. It's true that it's a bit hairy above the 3rd bolt, but only b/c it's sandstone: jugs abound and the stance for anchor clipping is solid. Pulling out of the chimney with the waves crashing below is absolutely amazing... at least, in retrospect it's amazing.
By Samuel Trimboli
Apr 21, 2016

Epic! 5.9 if you're a trad climber. 5.11 if you're a boulderer.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
May 2, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Best route I have done at Salt Point!

The 10a grading is accurate. This route has multiple cruxes and is quite sustained.

I took a few cams and slings, placed one in the corner below the roof and extended it with three slings.

It is quite a heady lead not because the pro is bad or runout but the exposure climbing through the roof is incredible.

Route photo:
By sean burke
From: Concord, Ca
Jun 6, 2016

Other than the center glue in at the anchor, The bolts up top are not very trust worthy. Hanging belay on two spinners in gritty.....I stepped over Left and up to the 2 SMC bolts and a better stance.
By Natenak
Nov 16, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

The Bay Area Rock guidebook has it at 10c. I consistently onsite 11a, but struggled figuring out the sequence for this one. Even after sending it several times, there's no way I'd give it 10a. 10c at a minimum. But it is a great climb!

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