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An Elephant Never Forgets  T 
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They Come and They Go T 

Captain Fingers 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nick Yardley 10/87
Page Views: 2,520
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Nick Yardley stressing the very essence of fashion...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Another awesome 5.11c not quite as perfect as its neighbor of the same grade, Apocalypse Later, but still not to be missed. "Holy crimpers" this thing will make you work your fingers (hence the name). The hardest moves are at the bottom, and it's just a matter of not pumping out your crimp muscles as pretty much every hold is crimpy. There is however a creative rest toward the top that will put the route in the bag for you, find it and love it.


The left route on the right-most wall in this section.


4 bolts to quick clips.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Undercling and Thumb-dercling
Undercling and Thumb-dercling

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By Kayte Knower
Mar 3, 2007

I like this route. Nice Rumney crimping, straightfoward in places and tricky in others. It has some cool technical moves, and reminded me of Smith Rocks.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Apr 8, 2010

Are you supposed to move out left to the arete near the top? I did, and it was nice!
By S. Neoh
Aug 25, 2013

The anchors are just two glue-ins. No links. Deserving of two links for each glue-in, IMO. Mark, the (expansion) bolts all seem fine today. Looks like two of them might be 1/2-inchers.
Still sharp after all these years. I tried the left arete variation between the third and fourth bolt. It definitely takes the stint out of that section of the route compared to straight up. Route is still .11c though. Going to the arete probably means quicker sends, that's all.
Unless it is against your ethics or you are very comfortable with crimpy 5.11 climbing, I recommend stick clipping the 1st bolt.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

If anything I thought this one was harder than Apocalypse Later.
By Zac St. Jules
From: New Hampshire
Sep 10, 2015

There are now quickclips up top.

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