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Captain Crunch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ken Rose, Kenny Sterns 1974/ Direct Finish in 1979 by Jon Frank, Jimmy Ratzliff
Page Views: 1,186
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Climb the super easy right most ramp up to a short roof section and belay in the boulders up top.


The right most ramp on the wall. Scramble across the ledges below to get to the base of this climb.


Rack to 2.5", gear anchor. Watch for loose of falling rock.

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By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Jun 29, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just a heads up - the "scramble" to the base of the climb about 20ft of 4th class and a bit sketchy. The climb makes the approach worth it though - great exposure at the top!
By Jacob Creighton
Feb 21, 2016

Cap'n Crunch gets its name from the loose, friable rock in fist- to head-sized chunks that make up seemingly half of the holds through the finish. Knock and wiggle everything you touch, first. Rope drag ramps up because you end up traversing around the bad rock, and the options for building the anchor are not great. Otherwise, a fun route.

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