REI Community
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Dogpatch T 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 
Lemon Line T 
Lime Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rosy I T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Stray Stud T 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Captain Crunch 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: [Kyle Copeland, FFA Dale Goddard]
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,007
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dan Levison starting the business on The Crunch. ...

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the rarest of rare -- a 5.13 sport route in Eldorado Canyon. While not as good as its compatriots Your Mother or The Web, it's still a good tick for those who like bouldery routes (the business is only 20 feet long).

    This route is on the small (40-foot high) buttress below and south of the Roof Wall, right above the start of the trail up to the west side of Redgarden Wall. It's just down and right of a thin crack (Breakfast of Champions) and can be recognized by a large grey half-inch bolt partway out the overhang and by the bounty of chalk on the flakes underneath the lip.

    Aid out to the 1/2 inch bolt via a rusty pin and an old star drive on the left. Clip it and lower down, as the actual climbing begins down and right. Burly slap moves take you up the funky, overhanging rib to a final lip encounter on poor slopers (don't bother with this route if it's hot out). Another bolt or two gets you over the slab and up to the rusty chain anchors.


    Five to six quickdraws.

    Photos of Captain Crunch Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt replacement on 3/29/2015. Props to Joe Crotty...
    Bolt replacement on 3/29/2015. Props to Joe Crotty...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Captain Crunch from profile.
    Captain Crunch from profile.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of Captain Crunch.
    The crux of Captain Crunch.

    Comments on Captain Crunch Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 31, 2015
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 11, 2001

    13a/b? Sounds good to me. This route also has a fairly hairy slab at the top. I remember bringing a stopper or two to supplement the bolts. Also this is easy to work out on TR. In fact there's a great 5.11 corner just to the left to warm up with on TR. Almost like Rifle.
    By Joe Huggins
    From: Grand Junction
    Oct 12, 2001

    Although the guidebook credits Charlie with this route, I'm afraid I have to take primary responsibility. Kyle Copeland did it on aid and suggested that I should do it as a free route. To make a long story short, Charlie joined in the crusade after I had been at it a while and together we worked out the crux moves but couldn't continue to the top. The crux bolt has been replaced and two more added, I believe, by Dale Goddard, who I believe also deserves credit for the first ascent. Cheers, Joe
    By Nate Weitzel
    Apr 22, 2002

    I am curious, does the line start directly below the gray bolt, or is it "allowed" to traverse in from the left following the aid bolt section? Both seemed tough, but obviously not the crux so I wondered if it matters to anyone?
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 23, 2002

    It matters only if it matters to you. The crux is indeed higher than the section you are concerned about. It is common practise to work this on TR, and on the redpoint have the first 2 pieces (a pin and a bolt, I think) clipped to start. P.S. get on this before it gets much hotter.
    By Nate Weitzel
    Apr 23, 2002

    Agreed, those sloper holds above the lip require good temperatures!

    By Joe Huggins
    From: Grand Junction
    May 23, 2002

    To answer the question about where the route goes... I placed the "aid" bolt without actually knowing how the moves would work out. Eventually I started down to the right which is the standard way. I saw a couple of very strong lads a couple of years back who did it directly from the first bolt which looks real hard but saves a lot of distance.
    By Ben Randolph
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 8, 2007

    I thought this was a pretty good boulder problem. Ok for a route needs to be longer. Fun either way.
    By Josh Gross
    Feb 4, 2008

    Great route, fun crux. 8a Good cold weather route, sun 12pm-1pm 2pm 3:30pm
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 10, 2008
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13

    Great winter climb (2 windows of sun and protected from the wind). Exciting/spicy runouts hence the "S" rating. More fun than The Web!
    By kiff
    Mar 20, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    This is the most condition dependent route I've been on in smeldo. Considerably easier than The Web. Ya gotta start on the ground after getting the first bolt clipped, none of that aiding bs....
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Mar 31, 2015
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Props to Joe Crotty for replacing some old, manky bolts on CC, on Sunday, 3/29/2015.

    Rock Climbing Photo: Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.
    Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About