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Captain Choss 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Aaron Rough and Dave Stallard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Rough on Oct 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Start of route

Description 

P1- (14 bolts) Start just left of a small alcove. Pull up the large features then follow jugs through overlaps on a line that trends slightly left. Rest up at a ledge before tackling the steeper wall with progressively smaller features before the belay ledge is reached.

P2- (9 bolts) Angle slightly right from the belay and tackle the immediate headwall. This is followed by a low angle ramp then finishes with another 4 bolt steeper headwall guarding the top of the cliff and the final anchor.

Location 

Just left of the sharp arete of Grape Vine/ Grape Juice.

Protection 

P1 - 14 bolts. P2 - 9 bolts


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By Floyd Hayes
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I climbed it with Andrew Taylor on July 8, 2012. Pitch 1 had 12 (not 14) protection bolts and pitch 2 had 7 (not 9) protection bolts. On pitch 2 the first headwall felt like 5.10c and the second felt like 5.10d. I took three leader falls at the crux, once when a foothold broke, once when a handhold broke, and once when I simply rested on the rope after clipping a bolt. Luckily I did not hit the big ledge beneath it. There were no chains at the top so we rapped off two quickdraws that we later retrieved by hiking to the top. We had a short rope so we did two rappels. The second rappel ended in a small tree, which wasn't easy to extricate ourselves from. It was a fun adventure, which is why I give it two stars; the quality of climbing is only one star.
By Rough
Jan 8, 2013

Glad you got on it Floyd. Its been awhile since I climbed it, but I might have included the anchor bolts in the "bolt count" originally which is why they are off by +2. As for the climbing, I really liked the 1st pitch and thought the second pitch was so so but still fun. We didn't put chains on the top since you can reach them from the lip like you mentioned. We always just belly flopped over the top and walked off.
By Floyd Hayes
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I've posted a video of the climb at
By FourT6and2
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 9, 2016

Can this be rappeled with one rope? Or do you need a tag line or two ropes? 50, 60, or 70m rope?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 9, 2016

Top anchor is not rap equipped. You can walk off or rap Aloha, or you could add some links to the top anchor. First pitch is over 30m, so if you want to rap after 1, you need a 70m.

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