REI Community
Penstemon Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Captain America T 
No Zukes T 
Rachel's Garden S 
Song of the Earth T 

Captain America 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Vernon, Mike Baca 1987
Page Views: 1,220
Submitted By: Steve Gade on Aug 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Captain America charges straight up the prow of Pe...


Start by climbing the crack (5.8) in the center of the dome. Belay on a spacious ledge by slinging a chockstone at the back or build an anchor near the front to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 2 (5.7) takes you left around a corner and then angles up and left along an obvious crack. Build a belay behind a very thick flake/block but consider backing it up in the nearby crack.

Pitch 3 (5.10a) opens with the technical crux and then backs off to 5.8 lay-back past two bonsai trees. If you have a 60m rope, belay under the roof (continue with a 70m).

Pull the roof (bolt) on Pitch 4 (5.8)and lay-back to a bolted belay.

Pitch 5 is the psychological crux with tender-footed 5.8 slab climbing which angles left over crusty granite past (5) 3/16 inch bolts.

Three raps (TWO ROPES!) take you down to the left of the route or you may walk off.


This is the most obvious natural line up the middle of Penstemon dome. Start 100' left of the large sugar pine.


Standard rack

Photos of Captain America Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3, the reason you came
Pitch 3, the reason you came
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Top of Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: approaching bolted belay
approaching bolted belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the move to the chains at the top of pitch ...
BETA PHOTO: Making the move to the chains at the top of pitch ...

Comments on Captain America Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About