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Cereal Buttress
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L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemima T 
Bee Tree T 
Born Again S 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Call of the Wild  T 
Capt Crunch T 
Doug Reed Solo TR 
Faith Based Initiative T 
Frankenberry T 
Frosted Flake T 
Fruit Loops T 
Good Samaritans T 
Granola T 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Hungry Jack T 
Inner Peace T,S 
Jack Be Nimble S 
Mennonite Surf Party S 
Mid-Life Crisis T 
Name Unknown S 
Name Unknown (5.4) T 
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 
Obamanation T 
Petrified Frog T 
Sea Wolf T 
Shredded Wheat T 
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 
Whisky For Breakfast T 
Wylen T 

Capt Crunch 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeep Gaskin and Brad Shaver, 1976
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 5,381
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Upper section of Capt. Crunch.


Capt Crunch starts on the right edge of the backside of the cereal buttress. Look for the obvious wide crack start. You will be salivating when you look up at the uppers jams!


Located on the back right side of the Cereal Buttress. Look for the wide crack start, that goes through some blocks and finishes on bomber jams.


Bring extra 3-4 inch gear for the wide section. No anchors at the top. Rap off trees.

Photos of Capt Crunch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Capt' Crunch
Capt' Crunch
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping out Capt Crunch.
BETA PHOTO: Scoping out Capt Crunch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower part of Capt Crunch
Lower part of Capt Crunch
Rock Climbing Photo: Capt. Crunch!
Capt. Crunch!

Comments on Capt Crunch Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 29, 2017
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008

Mellow climbing for the grade. Watch out for the somewhat dirty top out.
By Phoffmann
Nov 23, 2010

The first tree at the top of the route fell over in a storm. Belay way back from the edge on the next best tree.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

With the other tree falling down, this route is a pretty strong candidate for a bolted anchor. The next best tree is pretty far back and not at all confidence inspiring.
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun climb, but would agree with Nathan that it is a touch soft for the grade (when dry). Wish it stayed more clean. As far as adding an anchor, I'm not sure how I feel about that, as the rap tree isn't that big a deal to get to, and you can still set up a TR with some long runners. As far as I'm concerned, any anchor would have to be placed in such a way that it still necessitates the top-out. You haven't finished this route unless you are standing on the ledge.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jun 29, 2012

Regarding the need for an anchor: I completely agree with Robert's comment.
By Kevin DB
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Wouldn't complain if someone put in an anchor. It's pretty good climbing, pulling through the surprisingly solid death block roof is somewhat unnerving.
By caverdave
Feb 23, 2014

Put in a bolt anchor up top. Has anyone thought about the reason the trees are falling out. Because people are belaying off them. D'uh!
By chummer
Oct 20, 2014

Agreed, no reason not to put in a two bolt belay at the top. It will keep people from trampling the moss up on the ledge and maybe keep the tree alive too.

The route is plenty trad as it is.
By aribtraryusername
From: Carson City, NV
Apr 12, 2016

fyi, we climbed on 4/11/16 and there are two trees with rap slings -- one on the far L side of the ledge, and one on the far R side. we rapped off the R one which seemed easier to get to. really fun route but i also agree a little soft for the grade. reminded me of Agony at seneca rocks.
By Ben Wu
From: North Carolina
Nov 2, 2016

@gneiss pirate Might I ask why? I'm new to these discussions, so I'd appreciate some edification.
By Christian H
Dec 8, 2016

What are the thoughts now on adding a bolted anchor due to fire? Curious to hear if there was damage to the trees/soil. Could be a great chance to help preserve what is [left?] at the top of the cliff. Seems more LNT to me...
By Christian H
Dec 11, 2016

Gneiss Pirate, since you are so adamant against a bolted anchor here, could you explain to me the thought process of why? I truly don't understand the "NC ethic". It seems like a great way to get folks hurt.

Back in the day when there was less traffic I would agree with the use of trees/natural features. Times have changed though. Climbing is more popular now than ever, and as a result there has been a greater environmental impact in the areas we love.

Does a bolt anchor take away from the quality of the route? Is it a LNT issue? Is it a pride thing? What would have a greater impact...putting two bolts at the top of a route, or trampling a fragile cliff top ecosystem. Besides, tat is typically sketchy, and ugly. Especially when you get a whole web of crap because no one trusts it. I'd like to see the rodents try chewing through some bolts...
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Dec 12, 2016

Christian...the NC tradition gives the utmost respect to the FAer of the route and dictates that changes to routes generally involve getting in contact with the FAer and asking permission for that change. This is a great way to preserve the purity of a route and make sure nobody changes what makes each climb great/difficult/different/unique. Instead of becoming inflammatory over this, maybe you should follow accepted protocol and get in touch with Jeep about his feelings on adding a bolted anchor.
By Chris Massey
Jan 29, 2017

As of 1/29/17 tree is in good shape and it appears that webbing/cord combo has been replaced post-fire. No issues belaying or rapping.

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