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Capra Diem 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: RMWright & Dr. ABS, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 16, 2001

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Description 

Capra Diem is on the main pegmatite plate just off the road and on the right. It is a two pitch line that runs through the obvious left facing dihedral in its second pitch. P1 runs up a moderate face to a double bolt belay below and to the right of the large dihedral. By itself this pitch is uninspiring, and can still shed some loose rock. P2 surmounts a steep roof/bulge with several 5.11+ sections and then traverses left to the base of the dihedral. Entry into the dihedral is not simple, and climbing is very continuous 5.11 right to the anchors. It is highly recommended to bring the second up to the top anchor rather than trying to lower back down to the belay. The turns entering the traverse and entering the dihedral could generate horrendous rope drag.

Protection 

A dozen draws and a rope. This line is composed of two pitches, however, a single 60 meter rope will just get you to the ground from the top of P2.


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By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Jun 22, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think the first pitch is a great warm up and a good route. However, the second pitch seemed a bit contrived, although with a nice finish. Could anyone give beta on the second pitch. I'll admit I had to use some french to get to the fourth? bolt. Can anyone tell me what the story behind the bolting is on this route?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 23, 2006

Simple enough story. I had tried to run straight up but could not find a sequence. I came in from the side because it would go. Seemed a bit tricky and powerful stacking up, getting the underclings, and the layaways. The rock seems sketchy off the belay but it seems to be solid enough that full body yarding has not reefed off anything significant.
By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Sep 6, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

In the beta photo with the power lines, this is route #1.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 14, 2010

P1 is mediocre and maybe 5.7. Easy climbing leads to a short dirty crux. The anchors are set back a bit, so we belayed from the anchors and then rapped. P2 looks confusing with two bolted lines leading left from the belay, one low and one high.
By John Layko Torkleson
May 19, 2012

We pulled off two softball-sized rocks right at the crux moves on the first pitch. I will agree that the first pitch could be a decent moderate, but it still needs a lot of clean up. It started to rain, so we could not get on the second pitch. Climb at your own peril.

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