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Capitol Gorge
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Capitol Gorgeous  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, May 1994
Season: Cooler months
Page Views: 2,137
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Mar 28, 2011  with updates from bvb

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Sydney Hartsock top roping Capitol Gorgeous.


This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor.


This gem is located a couple hundred feet left of False Premonitions and is on the right side of a large alcove. There is a faint trail that leads up to the wall from the wash. From where the dirt road crosses the wash the first time, hike up the wash past a lone juniper to where it becomes rocky; from this point small cairns mark a path up and right to the base of the wall in the vicinity of "The Big Three Inch" a left facing corner with two bolt anchor at the top.


A few smaller pieces for the initial ramp then lots of #3 Camalot/#3.5 Friend sized pieces and #4 Friends and some #4 Camalots.

Photos of Capitol Gorgeous Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview photo of the left side of Capitol Gorg...
BETA PHOTO: An overview photo of the left side of Capitol Gorg...

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By bvb
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

I was new to new routing on Wingate in the early 90's, so I botched this and put the anchor in too low. Killer splitter, though.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Mar 13, 2013

Hey Bob, thanks for the information on this and a bunch of the other CRNP routes. And thanks for the routes...
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 4, 2016

we thought we were climbing this , but the picture shows we were way off- did a double crack in right facing corner, anchor below a roof with OW. It was closer to the south face corner. Information is hard to come by for CRNP.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Nov 5, 2016


Were you right or left of where the route is indicated in this picture? Also, there is a guidebook to the area...

or maybe you already have it...?
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jan 17, 2017

we were way right, very near where it wraps around to south side. I will get your book for next time.

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