REI Community
Capitol Gorge

Select Route:
Capitol Gorgeous  T 
Classic Handcrack T 
False Premonitions  T 
Mystery Splitter T 
Seamus Chill T 
Unnamed 5.12 T 

Capitol Gorge Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 4,869
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: josh holmes on Oct 11, 2008
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!


Soaring wingate cliffs adorn either side of this impressive canyon. To bad there is a "no new fixed anchors" rule.

Getting There 

Drive south from the visitor center on the scenic drive 8 miles. The paved road ends and there is a nice pavilion on the right that I am sure some one would stop at a have a picnic. Continue past the pavilion on the dirt road for almost a half mile to reach the parking for Classic Handcrack.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.1 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Capitol Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Capitol Gorge:
Classic Handcrack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
False Premonitions    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   
Capitol Gorgeous    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 135'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Capitol Gorge

Featured Route For Capitol Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview photo of the left side of Capitol Gorg...

Capitol Gorgeous 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Utah : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge
This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Capitol Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 4, 2016
I climbed something almost directly ( little west) across the way from the Classic hand crack on the north side of the wash, south face. A plaque said something about LA. Maybe 10a/b. dirty hand crack to OW pod, back to hands and fingers, scary block at top and bolted anchor. I replaced the ancient sling with a orange cord 10/2016. gotta love the feeling of doing a first ascent at the creek.
By josh holmes
Feb 10, 2017
George, I think you may have climbed one of the routes to the right of this route

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About