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Capitol Gorge

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Capitol Gorge Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 4,653
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: josh holmes on Oct 11, 2008
Forecast:
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77° | 48°
Saturday

71° | 45°
Sunday

76° | 48°
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80° | 49°
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82° | 53°
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Description 

Soaring wingate cliffs adorn either side of this impressive canyon. To bad there is a "no new fixed anchors" rule.

Getting There 

Drive south from the visitor center on the scenic drive 8 miles. The paved road ends and there is a nice pavilion on the right that I am sure some one would stop at a have a picnic. Continue past the pavilion on the dirt road for almost a half mile to reach the parking for Classic Handcrack.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.1 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Capitol Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Capitol Gorge:
Classic Handcrack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
False Premonitions    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 90'   
Capitol Gorgeous    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 135'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Capitol Gorge

Featured Route For Capitol Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Goff leading Classic Handcrack

Classic Handcrack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Utah : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge
A great introduction to desert crack climbing. Start down and left of the crack near a pine tree. Ascend the obvious splitter crack in the wingate slab. The crux is getting past a thin-hands section to the good hand jams and another little cruxy section just before the anchor (bring something like a green or a yellow alien). Originally called 10a, this will feel easier than anything in Indian Creek....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Capitol Gorge Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 4, 2016
I climbed something almost directly ( little west) across the way from the Classic hand crack on the north side of the wash, south face. A plaque said something about LA. Maybe 10a/b. dirty hand crack to OW pod, back to hands and fingers, scary block at top and bolted anchor. I replaced the ancient sling with a orange cord 10/2016. gotta love the feeling of doing a first ascent at the creek.
By josh holmes
Feb 10, 2017
George, I think you may have climbed one of the routes to the right of this route

mountainproject.com/v/unnamed-...

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