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Cape Ann Ice and Mixed Climbing

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Cape Ann Ice and Mixed Climbing Rock Climbing 

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Location: 42.62982, -70.67671 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Dec 27, 2013
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Oz in Scottish conditions.


Given its proximity to the sea and the sandy, well-drained soil, ice formation can pretty finicky on Cape Ann, but small flows do form reliably in the right conditions, particularly when cold spells follow on the heels of snow melt. In such conditions, all the wet, mossy slabs that suck for climbing are suddenly full of several inches of seeping ice. None are likely to be tall or that fat, but a lot fun can be had climbing them.

In addition to small, isolated flows, there are many a scrappy outcrop and wall that although too crappy for bouldering are pretty fun for mixed. Even some of the known climbing areas, because they often buried in the woods, can ice up in spots.

Getting There 

Head down Route 128 past the Dunkin' Donuts. If you end up in the sea, you've gone too far.

Climbing Season

For the Cape Ann area.

Weather station 4.3 miles from here

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Rock Climbing Photo: Oz in Scottish conditions.
Oz in Scottish conditions.

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By Eric Radack
Nov 18, 2014
After many years living in the west, I fondly recall several worthwhile - if ephemeral - mixed/ice bouldering areas. The quarry at Halibut Point features an ice flow that terminates at the mid-point of one short wall and requires a few moves of dry tooling to finish. The outlet of the Reservoir Quarry in Rockport on Rte 127 near Gull Cove has an ice flow on the left hand wall which has the potential of forming a curtain during a hard freeze. Lastly, my favorite problem is in a hidden quarry off Atlantic Street in West Gloucester (on the left, just before Bray Street as you head toward the beach). This quarry has one entertaining rock route that follows the steep ramp in the center and a shady 60' corner that reliably ices up on the right side. Enjoy!

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