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Cap-itan Lanaudois

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Main cliff 
Secteur des folles 

Cap-itan Lanaudois Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,510'
Location: 46.81367, -73.59896 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 976
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luc on Dec 8, 2014
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Cap-itan Lanaudois

Zero trace, be nice MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Welcome to a new playground in Lanaudière!
A bit off the beaten path, kinda odd to not have been publicly mentioned, maybe it hadn't been climbed in the past.

The cliff is around 80 meters tall and around a kilometre long, a few areas seem to benefit of a renewing source of water while most of the cliff seems to be fed by melt water. The rock is solid near the consistency of granite. The quickest way to reach the cliff is across the lake but be careful to check the depth of the ice before venturing to far. If you decide to skirt the lake you can cross a small stretch of ice north of the cottage, except that a section of the cliff in the center goes all the way into the water. If you plan on reaching the cliff from the south, you can bushwhack from the road just as you reach the west portion of the lake.

Aspect: the cliff faces South West.

The cliff is in the SEPAQ Réserve Faunique de Mastigouche and access will only be possible by back-country skiing and snowmobile once the un-plowed roads (AWD/4WD with good winter tires are highly recommended) become impracticable below the snow.
There's no cell phone coverage and you're over 35km away from the nearest house, plan accordingly.

Snowmobiling-in will be possible once the trail #345 gets opened. You also need the proper permit to use the trails. Please check with the Club de Manawan or Club Royaume de la Motoneige for more details such as trail conditions, rentals and lodging.

Please conduct your stay with a "no trace" philosophy so that we may secure access for rock climbing in the spring of 2015.

The cliff was discovered while snowmobiling by the wonderful mother (Suzanne Demers) of 3 avid climbers (Serge, Pierre-Olivier and Bruno) who generously shared this information around to arrange an amazing climbing/camping weekend of first ascents December 6 and 7, 2014.

Getting There 

From Montreal:
Highway 40 East towards Trois-Riviere/Quebec
Exit 122 onto Aut-31/rte 131 North towards Joliette/Lavaltrie (52.5 km)
Exit 15-E onto Rte-131 N/Rte-158 E towards St-Felix-de-Valois/Berthierville (13.2 km)
Turn left onto Rue Principale (17.9 km)
Turn right onto Rue St-Michel (28.2 km)
Arrive in St-Zenon (31.34, 144km, 2h 4min, 46.5567442,-73.8158415)

Straight to the SEPAQ Entrance from St-Zenon (remain on the 131 to reach St-Michel-des-Saints):
Get on Rue Principale and drive northwest
Turn right onto Chemin Champagne, 4.39 km, 4 min
Turn right onto Chemin Du Lac-Poisson, 6.45 km, 6 min
Turn left onto Chemin Champagne, 1039 m, 2 min
Turn right onto Chemin Du Lac-Poisson, 8.13 km, 8 min
Lac de la Bouteille Entrance, 3.88 km, 4 min, 23.9 km, 24 min, N46.70267° W73.70095°

From the Bouteille Entrance to Lac du Cap:
Stay on park road 3
Turn left to stay on road 3 at Lac du Dimanche, 7.6 km, N46.74421° W73.64483°
Turn left onto road 32 at Lac des Champignons, 7.2 km, N46.79393° W73.60488°
Turn right towards Lac du Cap Cottage, 2.6 km, 17.5km, N46.81388° W73.59943°

Contacts 

Club de motoneigistes Manawan
C.P. 1732
Saint-Michel-des-Saints, QC
J0K 3B0
Telephone: +1-450-875-0977
kanawata01@msn.com

Club Royaume de la Motoneige
(Auberge Le Cabanon)1590, Lac Stanislas
Saint-Zénon, QC
J0K 3N0
Telephone: +1-450-884-5762

Motel-Hotel Central Resto Bar
Trail conditions and lodging
510 rue Brassard
St-Michel-des-Saints,Qc
J0K 3B0
Telephone: +1-450-833-1331
Toll free: +1-877-833-1331
info@hotelcentral.com

Climbing Season

For the *Quebec Ice, Mixed & Alpine Climbing area.

Weather station 19.1 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cap-itan Lanaudois

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cap-itan Lanaudois:
Donnez moi de l'oxygène   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Secteur des folles
Suzie Q'ute   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Secteur des folles
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cap-itan Lanaudois

Featured Route For Cap-itan Lanaudois
Rock Climbing Photo: (left) first pitch

Donnez moi de l'oxygène WI4+  North America : Canada : ... : Secteur des folles
Pitch 1, WI4, 40mHead up short the corner below the cave (thin) then (V1)step right onto a ledge below the cave and up the gully just left of the cave.Belay in the trees on your right.V1 go straight and up the thin runnel (harder).Pitch 2, WI4+, 40mStep back down into the gully and make your way up to a large platform.Climb up the corner and right face to a tree belay....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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