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Canyon Block
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Blues for Allah S 
Canyon Block Project T 
Damaged Goods T 
Israel T 
Palestine T 
Rude Boy  T 
Scorcher T 
Shallow Jam T 
Tricks are for Kids T,S 
Wallflower S 

Canyon Block Project 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a R [details]
FA: Waiting for one
Page Views: 635
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jul 30, 2008

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  • Description 

    Left of Tricks Are For Kids is a left-leaning seam that quickly disappears into blankness. Very difficult but semi-safe climbing leads well above the last protection to a 5.11X finish. A number of years ago I worked out the moves and the protection which is small but solid in the seam but non-existent after the crux.

    I am writing this route/project up to encourage anyone who is looking for a genuinely difficult, headpoint-style route in the Boulder area. I also want to discourage anyone from bolting this line as a top-rope is easily set up. This project will be quite difficult and fairly dangerous to lead. I think this is a great example of the kind of pitch that should not have bolts added.

    Location 

    This is between Blues for Allah and Tricks are for Kids.

    Protection 

    Small stoppers, Aliens--best to work out the gear on rappel.


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