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Cantankerous Cranksters 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Borland, Kelsey Gray, August 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: coldclimb on Aug 11, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo showing the path of Cantankerous Cranks...


Takes a long trek up the center of the Fatal Attraction Wall. The first three pitches and the first half of the 4th pitch are bolted sport, and a beautiful crack system finishes with some trad gear to the topout.

P1 (5.6 35m): Start on a grassy ledge at the base of a slab and trend right up the slab past two bolts, over a grassy ledge, and past four more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

P2 (5.7 18m): A shorter pitch, can be strung together with the next pitch if you're okay with having a little rope drag in a crux. Takes a route straight up the face and right of a small roof through chickenheads with four bolts. Step left for a two bolt anchor.

P3 (5.10c 25m): Move right off the anchor and then head up immediately into a crux. Continue up the bolt line avoiding a sucker ledge on your left, and pull through another minor crux before an easy slab takes you to the anchor. Seven bolts.

P4: (5.11a 35m): Step up from the anchor to the face and clip the first bolt, then unlock the traverse left and head up the face through two more bolts. A crux sequence takes you left to a crack system where you can slot a #.75 camalot or #1 link cam, and then head up and right past one more bolt and into a beautiful 5.7 crack system that will take you to a flavorful finish at a small roof. Four bolts.


Head up the lower portion of the Valley to the base of the Fatal Attraction Wall. This route starts at the middle of the base and heads up and slightly left of the features and grass in the center of the wall.


Pitches 1-3 are bolted sport. Pitch 4 will use a light trad rack from .3" to 2"

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By Brady Deal
From: Anchorage, AK
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Bolts are quite spaced on pitches so bring a cool head and a full rack.

Pitch 4 is the crux with reachy 11a moves at the third bolt. Place a #1 camelot in the obvious pod after the third bolt. The first ascentionists claimed that there is gear up and the the right of the #1 cam, but if you feel the need to place more gear (the next bolt is 25 feet up and to the right), hang left and step up onto the ledge to your left.
By Griswald
Sep 6, 2017

I agree with Big Deal. Most people are going to go the way he is describing. The end of pitch 3 should go through big chicken heads instead of staying left. The chicken heads are dirty and should have been cleaned and bolted, but I guess I was late to the party. Kind of a fun route and could be better with some work.

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