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Cantaloupe Death 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Chapman, 1989
Page Views: 5,301
Submitted By: Kevin Friedrich on Oct 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Myself, leading Cantaloupe Death, circa 2000.

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Very fun lean-across-and-swing leads to some of the best pinn's knob pulling. The lean-across may seem intimidating, but after committed is easy.


5 bolts, chains atop.

Photos of Cantaloupe Death Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh on Cantaloupe Death
Josh on Cantaloupe Death
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh on Cantaloupe Death
Josh on Cantaloupe Death
Rock Climbing Photo: Seneca getting French on Cantaloupe Death.
Seneca getting French on Cantaloupe Death.

Comments on Cantaloupe Death Add Comment
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By Keith Forest
May 23, 2010

This is one of the handful of rap-bolted routes at the Pins - one of about ten in the whole monument.
By obiss
Dec 16, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route. Possibly 5.9 after a burley couple moves to start.
By Marathon
Jan 28, 2011

Thanks Keith I cant wait to try it.
By nicojah Parco
From: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Aug 3, 2011

If it werent for the start, it's a 10a. Fun and ladder-like
By Ryan Nevius
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Jan 16, 2012

At 5'10", the start was definitely only a mental crux. The first bolt could be comfortably clipped during the lean-across. The first few moves to get onto the wall are completely straightforward. Good route.
By Mark Chapman
Aug 31, 2014

A bit of history as I remember it...The routes name is Cantaloupe of Death. The name referred to a large knob near the top that we couldn't believe didn't pull out and conk one on the head causing death. I remember laughing myself silly over the seeming absurdity of it. Actually, the rock on this route is as good as it gets in the Monument. Ed Barry, Yabo and I did the FA. I guess it was my idea. Eddie and I, being Bay Area climbers, had a long history of climbing at Pinnacles. All my early leads were done there. My first 5.10 was a top rope ascent of No Holds Barred. Blair Glen, Barry Bates and I nearly did the FA on top rope of Feed the Beast in 1972. It was right below the rap anchor from the Monolith so we gave it a shot. Got to some large knobs just below the top. It was so steep! Don't know why we didn't go back and finish it off. Barry was climbing with a simple bowline tied around his waist. In January of 1973 Eddie and I did the FFA ascents of the Roof and the Hatchet. Yosemite pulled us away from Pinnacles for quite a few years but when we began to revisit it (mid to late eighties??)we always ended up at the Monolith. We liked to warm up by traversing along the base below the Regular route and Feed the Beast. One couldn't help but notice the great route potential here but it was all so steep and rather hard looking. That was when I had an epiphany--Wow! I bet one could lean over from that boulder at the base and pull onto the wall above the steep section. Sport climbing and rap bolting were just coming to the forefront of climbing and we all accepted the style thinking it better to create an ideal climb top down as opposed to mucking things up free/aiding it from the base. So that is exactly what we did. I was the first to redpoint Cantaloupe. Ed followed up by doing the FA of the direct start and Yabo did Hot Lava Lucy. All good fun!
By John Hovell
From: San Francisco, California
Mar 13, 2017

Surprised no one has mentioned it but in case it's not obvious by the time you're looking at the thing, it's one of the most height-dependent climbs I can think of. The shorter you are, the more core strength you're going to need to stick the dynamic body-bridge start. Or if you're like my 5'1" friend, need to perform an all-points-off dyno to (try to) start the climb... below 5'5" or so it's probably much harder than 10c. Bring or make a stick clip.

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