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Sun-top Tower
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Can't Can't T 
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Can't Can't 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: DL Oldschool
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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In the crux.

Description 

Can't Can't is located on the left of Suntop Tower. You can start it up ledges or to the left around the corner is a semi awkward (but good) dihedral which adds climbing. Work up to the roof which turns into a dihedral where some burly left palming gets your feet up over the roof. The next part is an interesting slanted crack which leads to the top. This is a great route to get used to trusting little wires at a reasonable grade. May feel a bit physical...

Location 

Left side of Suntop Tower, Prospect Pt. Towers, West Bluff.

Protection 

Small-medium wires, small cams.


Photos of Can't Can't Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Can't Can't" starts on the south corner...
BETA PHOTO: "Can't Can't" starts on the south corner...

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By Tradiban
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

A tricky climb! We spent a few solid goes each before we unlocked the crux. Sven mentions a "chorus line kick" but we never saw that anywhere. A hint would be to make sure you're facing right while trying to get into the dihedral. Also the crux hold is a sloper that might require scrubbing and chalk to feel on grade.

A direct starts in the left dihedral but there's no pro. Small cams at the start of the crux and a #2 ball-nut or small brass a little higher. A fall placing the piece after the crux (micro cam in crack) would be scary with big ledges lurking below.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 27, 2011

R? It's been a while, but I don't recall an R factor. Awesome little pitch.
By Tradiban
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Certainly R for the direct start, then good pro at the big horizontal but I didn't find anything until I was on the jugs higher and placed a small C3 at chest height. Maybe some micro brass in the seam? If so I didn't see it.

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