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Cannibal Gully 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: First Free Ascent: Bill Dutton, Paul Sullivan, 1969
Page Views: 1,335
Submitted By: Andrew Gillies on Jun 26, 2014

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  • Description 

    Hand crack in the left corner of the gully takes you up until you go over some easy bulges. First pitch ends at a couple of bolts at the end of the gully.

    The crux of the climb is the first moves off the ledge of the second pitch. Move up and left from the belay to a delicate mantle, then pull over some friction climbing onto another ramp. Continue up here to the second belay.

    the third pitch is easy low angle wide crack to the top out.


    to 4 inches.

    Comments on Cannibal Gully Add Comment
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    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Jan 27, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    First pitch is where it's at. If you don't have a burning desire to climb the entire route, then do yourself a favor and rap off here. Or, even better, finish on Touch and Go.
    By Gordy Ainsleigh
    From: Auburn, California
    Aug 10, 2017
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    IMO, this climb would need 4 bolts added to be reasonably safe. I've done the climb several times over the last 10 years or so, and have fallen twice on the steepening slab early in the last pitch. My most recent fall was 3 days ago, and my careening was much shortened by putting a small Omega Link-Cam in the top of the expanding flake before I headed up the slab. I've tried other cams, and they expand the flake when I fall, so they pull out. Those Link-Cams, with their huge expansion, take expanding flakes in stride--wonderful invention!
    To me, this route seems a lot harder than 5.7. John Hoffman, a pro climber at Donner in the bad old days (bless his retired-to-Bishop soul) once commented that this is the hardest 5.7 in the world. I graded it a 5.8 and I'm going to compare it to One Hand Clapping. If I don't fall on One Hand Clapping, I'm going to submit a grade of 5.9 for Cannibal Gully. If I do fall, I'll just have to admit that, at 70, I'm finally getting old.
    If you go off on a seam to the right at the base of the summit boulder, the short climb up the south face to the summit is awesomely exhilirating.

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