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Candyland Buttress
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Candyland T 

Candyland 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Robbins, Kirsten Davis and Thomas Koch, mid 1980s
Season: West facing
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Nov 10, 2015

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Coming up the "first" pitch. The ledge i...

Description 

The crux of this route might very well be the first move off the deck. A few creatively stacked blocks allow for a move that feels like 5.6, otherwise expect a boulder problem. Once established at the first bolt make your way up following the obvious quartz dike all the way to the top.

Location 

Look for the obvious continuous quartz dike on the right side of Candyland Buttress. The route starts as high as you can scramble though an additional half-pitch could be tacked on at the beginning. Several bolts mark the obvious start next to the dike.

Protection 

The route has several solution pockets that accept cams from micro size (0 BD C3) to larger cracks (#3 BD C4). A single rack will suffice with a handful of quickdraws. The bolts are oddly spaced with some very long runouts. The climbing is 5.6 but the runouts make it a little more serious.

It appears that the route originally had a two bolt belay approximately 45 meters up the route. This is now a lone bolt that cannot be backed up. This leaves a few options. Either climb the route with a 70 meter rope which might be long enough to do the entire route (we had a 60m which was not) or step right at the first ledge and belay off the nice Pinyon Pine. The remainder of the route would likely go with a 60m rope. Another option which I wouldn't recommend would be to belay at the bolt above the former belay station and back it up with a shaky #2 camalot in a pocket a couple feet up.

No fixed anchors are available at the top but there is a great tree to belay off of as you step right. Walk off to the right back down the gully.


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By bus driver
Nov 10, 2015

Fun route.
By Teeters
May 16, 2017

A 70m rope can be used to complete this climb in two pitches. Deal with the awkward start and climb ~50 ft to a ledge with a tree. Belay this short pitch from this ledge - anchors can be made with mid-sized cams. The second pitch continues for roughly 60m from here to a crack where natural anchors can be made. Save a few mid-size pieces for the anchors. Walk off.

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