Array ( [0] => 105708955 [1] => 105708957 [2] => 112409907 [3] => 105916340 [4] => 108067910 [5] => 108744434 ) Rock Climbing Routes & Photos in Candyland, West Desert
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Candyland Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.88799, -113.46755 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Emerson Takahashi on Mar 15, 2014
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Suzy Williams on a Rest Day in Ibex. Aerial Yoga i...


Candyland probably has the best camping in all of Ibex. Don't ruin it by leaving trash around! Broken bottles, bullet casings, and nails litter the area, so please pick up after yourself, and even others to help maintain this wonderful piece of land.

The bouldering gets lots of sun, so best to come early spring or in the fall to get the best friction. Most of the rock in the area is the typical bullet-proof(seriously) quartzite.

The first big bloc you'll come across is the Loaf boulder. The uphill side has a few problems that come out from under the roof onto the face. About 100 yards ahead is a triangular shaped boulder with an excellent yin-yang shaped crack on the north side.
From here, continue walking for about 10 minutes STAYING NEAR THE VALLEY FLOOR. The boulders on the hillside are all junk :(

You'll pass a tall boulder with two horizontal cracks going all the way around. This is the Wonder Bread Boulder, and marks the start of the Upper Candyland area, which has a better concentration of easy problems.
Look north for the tall, pointed, most prominent rock(Pyramid Boulder). Just downhill from there are a handful of warmups, as well as The Hamster, which climbs through a small hole in the roof.
The next cluster of boulders to the north have a few problems too, most notably a problem called Jesus, V8, which starts sitting on the right side of a hollowed out boulder, making big moves left along the arete before moving straight up on crimps.

This is adventure bouldering at it's finest! Keep your eyes and your mind open for fun problems to climb, they are all over the place.

Getting There 

Drive south on Tule Valley road for 8.5 miles until you reach the 3-way intersection, take a right.
Drive down this road for another 5.5 miles. The road will split, but keep to the right, and drive for another 2 miles, at which point you'll be able to turn left up a road that leads you up into a grove of junipers beneath the mouth of a small canyon.

The boulders are all scattered along the hillside to the north of the camping.
Gets nice early sun and the approach is about 15-25 minutes depending on which boulders you're going to

Climbing Season

For the Bouldering area.

Weather station 17.1 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Candyland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Candyland:
Jesus   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Candyland

Featured Route For Candyland
Rock Climbing Photo: reaching for the jug!

Jesus V8 7B  Utah : West Desert : ... : Candyland
If you're at the furthest end of the Candyland area, you just might run into Jesus. This is 100% a classic Ibex line, and would get much more attention is it wasn't out in the middle of nowhere....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

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By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Mar 15, 2014
Please be a responsible desert camper.

Bring your own firewood, don't destroy the beautiful grove of juniper trees.
Leave the campsite cleaner than when you got there!

To minimize impact on the approach to the boulders, walk up the dirt road until you are able to walk straight to the Loaf boulder, parallel with the cliffs.
Be mindful of the cryptobiotic soil crust

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