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Candyland T 
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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Kimball and Gary Sapp, 1984
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: paco on Jun 1, 2001

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A good route with a great crux pitch.

Approach as for Heart of Norway, but just before reaching it break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.

Pitch two, swim through a crack which is infested with lichen but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.

Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. this bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.


Bring your average Lumpy rack up to a #3 or #4 Camalot.

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