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Neanderthal Wall
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Ada Jam T 
Are You Experienced? T 
Bad Ass Pi Man TR 
Candyland T 
Cheater Five TR 
Chicken Wing Crack T 
Cro-Mag Crack T,TR 
Fat Fingered And Overhung TR 
Fingers Have It, The TR 
Hackfleisch TR 
Hanson's Folly T,TR 
Jackalopes and Preachers T,TR 
Mosh, The T,TR 
Oh Face TR 
Outer Mongolia TR 
Pack the Walls T 
Primal Jam T 
Rotunda, The TR 
Squeeze, The T,TR 
Stratego TR 
Up the Red TR 
Wall of Webs TR 
Way Out, The T,TR 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: [Tom Hanson, late 1980s]
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on May 20, 2001

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  • Description 

    Locate Candyland just around the corner from Chicken Wing Crack on the left (East-facing) side of the large, detached block.

    Start in some pockets and cobbles on the face and squirm a #2 Friend into the first pocket. Now climb up to a small, slanting ledge with a very thin crack at its back (oh, just thought of something--a large Pika hook might be able to fit around this ledge/flake), but if you don't generally carry large hooks around, place the micro cam in the thin crack above the ledge). A few feet higher the #3 tricam can be fiddled into a large pocket on the face. It takes a minute to get it right, but it's pretty bomber. Now, take a deep breath and punch through the crux under the right-facing corner/roof up to a long horizontal finger crack. Place a good #1 Friend, then pull the roof to the top. This route is spicy (Cajun style) but does not get an "s" rating if you can place the micro cam and tricam properly.

    The anchor on top can be made with two medium/large stoppers in a crack parallel to the cliff edge about 15 back and to the left. Use a long sling to get the rope over the edge.


    The pro is funky on this route, since it's listed as a toprope in the guidebook, but some flexible stem cams ;-0 and tricams can be fiddled into pockets and small horizontal breaks. Hard Grit, baby.

    The following pieces work well: #0, 2, 1 Friends, #3 tricam.

    Photos of Candyland Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climb the face and over the roof.
    BETA PHOTO: Climb the face and over the roof.

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