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11 gallon Hat TR 
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Penstemon T 

Candygram for Mongo 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Prehmus & Launer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: Alan Prehmus on Jun 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Candygram for Mongo (before cleaning).

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


The original start was left of the corner: up, then diagonally right to where the corner goes vertical. This start avoided a bush that is no longer there. It's harder than the direct start up the open book to the corner. Follow the crack to the overhang. Swing right and finish in the corner above the overhang.


This route is several hundred feed left (West) of the old fence line, and ~30 feet left of For the Green Penguin.

Descend using the two bolt rap anchor.


Standard rack. There are two glue-in Wave bolts at the top as an anchor. The only solid looking natural anchor is the big tree 30 ft. above/beyond the lip.

Photos of Candygram for Mongo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Bolts at the top.

Comments on Candygram for Mongo Add Comment
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By Karl Johnson
Aug 3, 2015

Mongo is a very nice climb now, and after cleaning, there are interesting routes immediately right of Mongo, well-protected. Note some rotten rock below the book, watch out below!
By Andrew Ingraham
From: Conifer
Mar 13, 2017

Did not like those big blocks through the crux. I also felt the seam to right of the blocks did not have reliable rock for protection. Mongo like crack just to the right looks like a much better option.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Jul 16, 2017

I liked this route until I did Black Bart and looked at the stacked blocks near the top from the side. It reminds me of some formations in Eldorado Canyon that look like they are about to fall apart.

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