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Phat City
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L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Sugar T 
Candy Apple Red S 
Mill and Main S 
Phat Crack T 
Phat Free Arete S 
Sunburst T 
Sweaty Betty T 
Tangerine S 
Tough Love T 
Treeline T,S 

Candy Apple Red 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Shelly Malkin & Tom Perkins, 2005
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Kenan on Aug 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is the farthest rightmost bolted route at Phat City. It is long and thought-provoking for the grade, ascending a a series of roofs and sharp edges with a sequence that initially appears devious.

Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 1 or 2 runners may be useful to reduce rope drag, but be careful of sharp edges. One or two key bolts are placed in such a way to minimize risk of the rope being cut, at the expense of additional drag.


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By Steve Montzka
Aug 17, 2015

Fun climbing at the top of this route, except for the potential DEATH BLOCK near the top.... Be very careful what you step on if you decide to undercling right near the last bit of this climb, between the second to last and last bolt. Ropes run over and ON the block if you choose to top-rope....
By D-Storm
Jun 19, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Be wary of sending a new 5.8 sport leader up this—the high crux involves some committing moves above a ledge before you can clip the next bolt. In general, I thought the bolts were pretty well spaced, and the movement varies from overhangs and mantels to stemming and smearing, so a leader should be confident at the grade. Alternatively, the bolts can probably be supplemented with some small to medium gear to better protect the move off the ledge near the top.

Besides that, the belay area is on a precariously steep slope—a No. 3 Camalot provides a nice anchor for belaying.

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