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Canary Crack Buttress
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Canary Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: flagstaff Oldschool 1970's
Season: Spring-fall
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 22, 2010

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Big hands for a big crack. Steve Grossman and the ...


Canary Crack is a little known, old school classic in the Flagstaff area, named for the bright yellow lichen which covers the pillars. Start by rapping down 100' to a ledge, and build a belay.

Then enjoy crisp jams in the ever widening crack. Hands to off width. A #4 is useful at the top. Enjoy the show!

My first time on this thing, a long time ago, I didn't have anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. Pumped and tired I opted for the flake on the left hand side at the top of the clean section. I found great climbing, good small/medium gear, and excellent exposure. A worthy variation if you don't fancy the wide stuff.


Find a very open, and prominent point on the South Rim. You will know it when you find it. Set up a rap and have a look over the ledge. You are looking for the longest, cleanest line on the prow which is covered in bright yellow lichen.


Triples on the hands, single set of smaller cams, #3.5, and a #4.

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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 7, 2013

I had a couple of C4 #4s and would have used a 5. Great climbing and color. I. Also used the flake at the top and had some nice movent and smaller gear in case you ran out of big cams
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Jul 30, 2016

Good, solid oldschool 5.10! Doubles is more than enough of 2" & 3"(singles up to #1 camalot is probably enough), and no stoppers needed. But don't get caught with only 1 #4 camalot. Absolutely want at least 2, and 3 (with one being an old #4) would be perfect.

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