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Canalizo 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Stewart and Miguel Carmona, April 1987
Page Views: 617
Submitted By: Adam Kimmerly on Sep 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: "Canalizo". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Well protected and fun. Climb up to the first bolt and then toe jam up a flaring seam a ways to the second bolt. From there, head up on smears to the third bolt. With the third bolt at your waist, you'll encounter the crux - a wide, unlikely step across to the right onto a slopey smear with some little crystals to crimp on as you make the move. Clip the 4th bolt from there and make some more delicate smears up to easier climbing, then the top.

The anchor take a #2, #3, & #4 camalot or similar. Not many options for small gear so bring at least a couple of larger pieces. Downclimb off the back

Location 

Just left of Gargoyle.

Protection 

4 bolts (3/8")


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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Canalizo looked about 5.8 from the ground, but we had realized our mistake by the 2nd bolt. Excellent thin face moves and smearing throughout. The upper part is well protected, but the 1st and 2nd bolts are well spaced, on thin friction, expecially on Mike Stewart's original 1/4" X 1" Rawl button heads. I still have the original bolts hanging in the garage, from when we upgraded the protection to 3/8" X 4" in 1992. Not a fan of the bolted convenience anchors that keep popping up around the park, but certainly miss the anchor that some idiot chopped, to the right of Gargoyle, that made descending Canalizo & Gargoyle a breeze.
By Phil Esra
Jan 3, 2013

I guess it's "well protected" at the hardest crux, but you can definitely deck if you fall before the 2nd bolt, and the climbing is not particularly easy at that point. Be careful. Fun slab. New bolts at the top of Gargoyle as of Xmas 2012.

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